Celadon Cupcake

Pura vida: Cabo Matapalo (part 4)

2011-07-18T12:24:00.000-07:00

After almost two weeks in Costa Rica, exploring the Caribbean coast, searching for the elusive resplendent quetzal, and finding wildlife and thunderstorms in Drake Bay, Dan and I headed to Cabo Matapalo, where the Golfo Dulce meets the Pacific Ocean.

We arrived in Puerto Jimenez, where there is a cemetery next to the airstrip...really! We were greeted by Graby, a driver from Bosque del Cabo, and it was time for another bumpy ride. Along the way, he stopped to show us a sloth...it was so lazy, barely lifting its head when Graby tried to get its attention.

Then we arrived at Bosque del Cabo, where we were greeted by tropical fruit drinks and lunch on the patio...I could get used to this! The grounds are lovely, and we saw a scarlet macaw fly out of a tree in front of our cabina when we moved in after lunch. We checked out the suspension bridge to the tropical garden, where we heard lots of birds in the trees overhead, but the canopy is so high that it is hard to spot them. But we did see a white-faced capuchin monkey sitting on the bridge one morning.

At the pond in the tropical garden, we met a couple who had just spotted a chestnut-mandibled toucan, but it flew away just before we arrived. This became the theme of our stay at Bosque del Cabo...it seemed that everyone was seeing toucans everywhere, except me! I soon learned to recognize the chestnut mandibled toucan's call, thanks to Philip, one of the resident naturalists. But usually the call was high above us or in the distance...too far to spot the bird. But, I did finally spot a calling toucan in a tree near our cabina early on our next-to-last morning...success!

Also spotted orb spiders on the path to our cabina. The female is soo much bigger than the wee male, can you see him?

After breakfast the next morning, we headed toward the Pacific trail...passing a troop of spider monkeys eating mangos on the way...they are very wasteful eaters. A few bites, then drop...watch out! There were partially-eaten mangos scattered all over the ground.

Luckily, other animals come by to clean up later. We saw a coati on the way back. Still, the smell of fermenting mangos lingered near the mango trees...yuck.

We saw poison dart frogs and a female currasow on the Pacific trail, and then...the beach!

The surf is strong on the Pacific side, so swimming is not recommended, but there are tide pools to explore. We saw sea slugs and chitins, looked for shells, and I saw a white hawk in a tree on the beach. We hiked up a creek to a small waterfall...refreshing! On the way back we soaked in the big tide pools, like a natural jacuzzi...ahh!

The hike back up was exhausting, hundreds of steps! But we were invigorated by lunch on the patio, then we moved into Mariposa, the last cabina on the forest edge. Gecko, where we spent the first night, was very nice...but Mariposa is breathtaking. I spent a lot of time on the deck, relaxing and admiring the view. Also took a few soaks in the outdoor mosaic tub, listening to the sounds of the forest. Lovely.

In the afternoon, we hiked the Titi trail, which is known for wildlife sightings, and the Saino trail, which has many ups and downs, going through several valleys and crossing a few streams. The Titi trail is where most big cats (pumas, usually) are spotted. We went in search of peccaries, and to my surprise we actually saw them! I saw three crossing the trail a few meters ahead of us, then we saw another peccary in the trees to the left of the trail. Then this one crossing the trail ahead of us. So five peccaries in all. They are cute.

We didn't see as much wildlife on the Saino trail, but we saw many, many leaf-cutter ants...they make their own highways, but often use the trails too, and after awhile I got tired of seeing them and trying to avoid stepping on them...but they really are pretty amazing creatures.

Can you hear the toucan call in this video of the ants?

We saw a couple of agouti on the way back, then did some relaxing and watching the monkeys on the deck. Since Mariposa is on the forest edge, it seemed the monkey highway was right next to us. Each afternoon we watched them swing through the trees and climb up and down a vine...even saw a mama monkey with baby on her back and small juvenile monkeys!

I saw a coati outside Mariposa the next morning, and this little guy on the patio.

After breakfast, we hiked the Golfo Dulce trail. I wanted to find the King Louis waterfall, but we were deterred by a huge fallen log and a snake by the creek. After crossing the creek, we ran into a group of people, including the family who runs Everyday Adventures...they lead rappelling tours down the waterfall...what luck! So we followed them up the creek, scrambling up the rocks, to this spectacular waterfall. We swam in the pool and went under the falls for what Dan calls a "hydromassage."

After the falls, the trail meets the beach access road. The first beach is Matapalo beach, and we watched the surfers catching the long breaks. It actually made me consider a surf lesson! (I quickly came to my senses.)

We passed beautifully landscaped private homes, rental houses, and lots of surf paraphernalia before arriving at the second beach, Backwash beach. We had lunch under the shade of a tent of bamboo poles and palm leaves, and then went swimming.

I got tossed about by a wave when I first went into the water! I guess I didn't see it coming...quite scary! But I was more careful afterwards, and got in and out closer to the edge of the waves. After the swim, we had planned to hike back up the Golfo Dulce trail, but as we were walking back up the road, I did not feel well. At first, I thought maybe I had a concussion from being tossed about by the surf earlier...which doesn't make much sense since I would have felt the effects right away. Luckily, there were many houses along the road, and a kind surfer told Dan that I had heat stroke and was very dehydrated. It made sense, since I hadn't had much water on the morning hike, as it was mostly downhill and very shaded, but I still sweated a ton since it's so hot and humid in the rainforest. I slowly drank some water, and Dan found someone with a cell phone and called Bosque del Cabo for a ride back. What an adventure! By the time we returned, I was feeling much better. We spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying the view from the deck and napping in the hammock. We also saw scarlet macaws fly by, their colors are so spectacular in flight.

In the evening we saw a presentation from Yaguara, about efforts to protect wild cats in the area and preserve rainforest habitat...it was very informative, and simultaneously encouraging and depressing. It was interesting to learn that scientists now believe that jaguars and other bigs cats have a much bigger range than previously thought...and it is nice to know that the area lodges are taking part in the effort, by acquiring more land to build a corridor between the national parks, and put camera traps on the trails to monitor big cat activity.

The next day we hiked the Zapatero trail, which also has many ups and downs. According to the trail description, it is 0.9 miles long, but it feels much further when hiking in the rainforest! I think it's the heat, humidity, mud, and ants. Still, it is quite beautiful.

Many trees in the rainforest have defenses...so it's important to look before grabbing hold onto something for support...best to have a walking stick.

Looking at monkeys, most likely.

Near the end of the trail, we saw a bird-eating snake. It must have been six feet long! I am glad the snake's head was facing away from the trail, since at the time, I didn't know it ate birds.

We also saw a pair of great currasows, and several great tinamous. After the hike, Philip the naturalist showed us a hummingbird nest on the underside of a palm leaf...so amazing! Since we had gone up to King Louis waterfall the previous day via the Golfo Dulce trail, we decided to try to find it on the Creek trail after lunch. We walked along (and in) the creek for almost an hour, and we were able to find it from this different approach! Our reward was swimming in the pool and going under the falls again.

After dinner, we checked out the pond near the mango tree grove, where we saw lots of frogs and a cat eye snake! Smokey jungle frog, banana frogs, and a few other kinds too. But I also got a large cluster of mosquito bites, grr. Early the next morning I finally saw the toucan, and after early breakfast, it was a bumpy ride to Puerto Jimenez for a boat tour of the Rio Esquinas. The boat left from the dock at Puerto Jimenez, and thankfully the waters of the Golfo Dulce were very calm.

The highlight for me was seeing a large pod of spotted dolphins, there must have been at least 100 dolphins swimming around the boat, some were even under the boat, and others surfing in the wake. Carlos said dolphins love to play with the boat...they like the vibrations...I wonder if it is like a massage? Later we also saw a small pod of bottlenose dolphins.

In the river we saw many birds, including a ringed kingfisher, little blue heron, and the boat-billed heron, which is one of my new favorite birds. Also saw a boa constrictor, crocodile, blue morpho butterflies, iguanas...thanks to our guide Carlos' eagle eyes. On the way back people took turns sitting in Carlos' spotting chair. We also went for a swim in the Golfo Dulce.

And we saw squirrel monkeys in the trees on the drive back! After lunch, we walked over to Casa Miramar. We had met a group of guests staying there, and they encouraged us to check out the house. It is a very interesting structure, sort of like a series of connected open-air buildings. We saw monkeys in the trees on the way up, and a gladiator tree frog outside the house. The view from the deck is beautiful.

After an afternoon nap, we went on a birdwatching tour with Carlos. He drove us to a spot and pointed out so many birds, I couldn't even keep track of what we were seeing. Then it started to rain, so we headed back. There was a beautiful sunset on our last night.

There was a huge downpour later in the night, and I was afraid the weather would affect our flight. Luckily it stopped raining in the morning, and we hopped on another tiny plane for San Jose. There was not too much turbulence during the 45 minute flight. Phew!

We had an amazing time in Costa Rica, there is so much wildlife to see!

Pura vida: Drake Bay (part 3)

2011-07-11T07:30:00.000-07:00

After a week on the Caribbean coast, and a stop along la Ruta de los Santos, it was time to head south to the Osa Peninsula! Gary, the owner of El Toucanet, took us to a bus stop on the highway, driving past fruit orchards and coffee farms. We saw incredible mountain vistas on the bus ride to San Isidro, the biggest town and transportation hub in the area. When we arrived, I was told the bus for Palmar Sur left from another bus station, and a "taxi" driver offered to take us to there. His car turned out to be a dilapidated vehicle with doors that did not close all the way. Lesson learned: Ask to see the taxi before accepting a ride. The next bus stop was just a few blocks away, and we found out we had just missed the bus. The taxi driver then offered to catch the bus for us, and since the next bus wasn't for at least two hours and we wanted to catch the last boat to Drake Bay that afternoon, we hesitantly agreed. He sped up on the highway, his door rattling in the wind...but he did catch up to the bus...traveling within Costa Rica is always an adventure!

From Palmar Sur, we took a relatively uneventful taxi ride to Sierpe, passing many palm oil plantations...then waited for the afternoon boat at Las Vegas Restaurant, where there was live music, a hopping bar, plus a convenience store, souvenir shop, travel agency, and boat dock. The restaurant was filled with local residents enjoying the Sunday afternoon. We had drinks on the patio, watching boats, driftwood, and a crocodile go down the river...until finally the boat for Drake Bay arrived. We spotted several crocodiles as we went went down the (calm) river...and then we reached the Pacific Ocean. What a ride! The boat captain maneuvered around the waves and rocks, and I was afraid of capsizing, even though I knew they traveled the route daily. Eventually we arrived at Drake Bay, where we had to get off the boat at the beach! No boat dock!

Several scarlet macaws flew overhead when we arrived at Finca Maresia, where we were staying. It was a great welcome. During our stay we saw several of them feeding in the trees at Finca Maresia. Unfortunately I couldn't get a good photo with my little camera. They are beautiful birds, especially in flight, but very noisy. Squawk squawk!

Finca Maresia is a lovely place to stay, even though it is up the hill from the beach. Our bungalow had a modern open-air shower, and two hammocks on the deck (no arguing over who gets the hammock!), where we spent the afternoons relaxing and listening to the sounds of the forest...we saw blue-gray tanagers, Cherrie's tanagers, and other birds...the grounds are planted with beautiful flowers and trees where macaws, toucans, and other birds feed, and the owner Juan takes great care of his guests. We enjoyed communal four-course dinners with other travelers each night...yum...Juan also pointed out a red-eyed tree frog in a tree before dinner on our first night.

The next morning we took another wild boat ride to Sirena station in Corcovado National Park. Our guide Roy spotted many birds and animals, and set up the spotting scope for us to get a closer look. This striped owl was in the trees near the landing strip at Sirena station. I saw it turn its head all the way around, so neat!

At that start of our hike, Roy pointed out tapir tracks on the beach (huge!)...I really wanted to see a tapir...then we met a couple on the beach, who had seen a tapir feeding on the trail! We didn't see the tapir on the trail, I thought we had missed our opportunity...but later we saw it resting in a pond just a few meters away from the beach. Apparently they like to rest in muddy ponds to cool off during the day.

We also saw all four species of monkeys found in Costa Rica. The squirrel monkey is the smallest of the four. It makes a squirrely sound and does not have a prehensile tail. Also they move really fast, we saw huge green grasshoppers fly out of the trees...Roy said squirrel monkeys love to eat them...it took us quite awhile before we were able to see the squirrel monkeys. (On the last day of our trip, we got a closer look at some squirrel monkeys on the road to Cabo Matapalo, but they were too quick to photograph.)

The white-faced capuchin is the most aggressive of the four monkey species in Costa Rica.

We ate lunch by the river, and we were looking at a crocodile on the other side, when Carlos, one of the guides, pointed out an anteater in the tree above us! Guess it was looking for termites in the tree...we had lunch with an anteater!

We wore rubber boots from Finca Maresia, which I am glad we did since we had to cross several rivers during the hike.

After another wild boat ride back to Drake Bay, it was hammock time. After dinner, we went on the night tour with Tracie "the bug lady" and her husband Gianfranco. He pointed out and described the amphibians, reptiles, mammals, and even a couple of bird nests. We saw a smokey jungle frog, gladiator tree frog, marine toad, common rain frogs, sleeping anole lizards, a four eyed oppossum, and a sloth moving high up in the trees. Oh, and a long purple snake transitioning from juvenile (red) to adult (black). I don't remember the name. Gianfranco said, "This snake will probably freak out when I pick it up," and it did. It is a venomous snake, but not aggressive, and doesn't bite in defense, only when eating other snakes, including the fer-de-lance. (I am terrified of them and thankfully did not see any fer-de-lances during the entire trip.) Instead the snake-eating snake gives off a musky smell in defense, which was barely detectable. I actually touched it! The skin felt surprisingly soft and dry.

Tracie described the insects and arachnids. We saw beetles mating, orb spiders spinning webs, a tarantula, and trap door spiders, which are amazing. Tracie opened three different trap doors on a moss-covered hillside...they are very well-hidden! After a few seconds, the spider closed the trap door and held it shut so it could not be opened again. Incredible.

We also saw a tailless whip scorpion, which Tracie thought I should put on my face. I was not so sure. Dan thought so too, even though he did not put it on his face. The scorpion felt pokey. I was a very good sport.

Despite this scorpion-on-the-face incident, I highly recommend the night tour...very interesting and informative.

The next day we hiked down to the beach in Drake Bay, then through the forest along the coast to Playa las Caletas where I went for a swim, and Dan looked for seashells. Kira, the dog at Finca Maresia, lead us down the muddy trail to the beach. The dog from Banzaii, the restaurant next door, came along too. Then a cute cattle dog mix from another hotel, Aguila de Osa, also joined us (not pictured, as he was barking at the waves). It was nice having three dogs with us on the walk though the forest along the beach.

We considered continuing on the coastal trail, but it started to rain so we turned back. That night was the storm of the century in Drake Bay! Not only did rain pour all night long, there was nonstop thunder and lightning. It was so loud, we barely slept at all. The thunder sounded so close to us that Dan was convinced the main building at Finca Maresia was hit by lightning. Luckily it was still there the next morning. We went down to the beach after breakfast, and the bay was brown with silt. The river, which was clear the previous day on our hike, was silty too. Even so, we decided to kayak up the river a bit and out on the bay briefly. We saw a crocodile on the shore, a bare-throated tiger heron, several kingfishers fly by, and many Jesus Christ lizards running on the water. It was very peaceful. Other than the croc. Dan wanted to paddle closer to the crocodile, but I said NO. The crocodile opened its mouth for a long time. (A guide later told us they do it to warm up in the sun.) When we paddled back, it jumped into the water verrry close to us...eeks!

The high school in the village was destroyed by the storm, and there was a mudslide on the road to the airport. We were flying out the next day, so I was feeling concerned about how we would get there. Not to worry. Juan worked it out with Franklin, taxi driver extraordinaire. He drove the car on the beach at low tide just beyond the spot of the mudslide. We walked along the beach to the car, while he and his son carried our luggage. Then they drove us to the airport. Talk about service! I was impressed by how the village residents live with and work around what nature may bring.

The Drake Bay airport was empty, just us and another family waiting for the plane. A sign was posted at the airport, but sadly, it was all untrue. I would have gladly had a cold drink, typical snack, and souvenir from the area during our wait for the flight. Perhaps these services are only provided in high season. (We were there during the "green season," aka rainy season.)

Eventually, a young man appeared out of nowhere to check our passports, weigh our luggage, and wheel it to the plane. (NatureAir has weight restrictions for luggage.) It was my first flight on a small plane. I was nervous, but luckily the flight from Drake Bay to Puerto Jimenez was only 14 minutes. And it was a smooth flight.

We had a lovely time in Drake Bay, and our last stop was on the other side of the Osa Peninsula...Cabo Matapalo!

Pura vida: Los Santos (part 2)

2011-07-10T09:49:00.000-07:00

Even though Costa Rica is a small country...often compared in size to the state of West Virginia...getting from place to place can be challenging, especially in the "green season" (ie. rainy) due to mountainous terrain, impassable rivers, and lack of paved roads. So when planning the trip I chose just a few spots to visit even though we were traveling for almost three weeks. (Aside: Friends and family expressed surprise at the length of our trip, though I happily would have stayed longer. And most of the European travelers we met were on longer trips, while the Americans were on shorter trips. Interesting, no?)

I knew I wanted to explore the Caribbean coast and the Osa Peninsula, so a stop in the mountains along the way between the two areas seemed to make sense...plus, we wanted to see the elusive resplendent quetzal! Although it is the national bird of Guatemala and the name of their currency, they are more easily seen in the cloudforests of Costa Rica. So after a week on the Carribean coast, Dan and I hopped on the bus in Puerto Viejo and headed back to San Jose...near Limon, the bus was stopped for a police check...that was a first for us. From San Jose, we took another bus for la Zona de los Santos, which encompasses a mountainous area of cloudforests, coffee farms, and small villages with sainted names.

We got off the bus at Santa Maria de Dota, where it was cold and rainy...just like home! There were no taxis at the bus station, and as we debated whether to walk through the rain to the taxi station near the church, a young man at the bus station called one for us. While we waited, he told us about Copey de Dota, the village we were headed to...saying it was cold there, and there were many fruit orchards. Already, the small town atmosphere felt quite different from the Caribbean coast. Eventually we were picked up, and the taxi driver seemed to know everyone in town. Since he didn't know the exact location of the hotel, he stopped several times along the way to ask people...he also received at least ten phone calls while driving...and I heard the words "pura vida" many times during the journey...as a greeting, as a farewell...it made me happy to hear this typical Costa Rican phrase so frequently. And eventually we made it to El Toucanet, a lodge nestled in the hills.

The next morning I awoke to a pooch keeping watch in front of the porch of our cabin!

It was Socks, one of the two resident dogs at El Toucanet. He and Kit (the other pooch) lead us on a morning walk looking for quetzals with Gary, the owner. We walked on the road that runs along the river, and I just couldn't get over how many different shades of green are in the forest. Gary pointed out the aguacate tree that quetzals like to feed on, the tiny mini-avocados are their favorite food. Apparently the quetzal eats the entire fruit, then spits up the pit.

After walking for almost an hour, I was losing hope when he spotted two quetzals, and we were able to see both of them through the binoculars, and one of them in flight! There is no way we would have seen them without his guidance, and it still amazes me how a bird with such vivid iridescent green and red color with super-long tail feathers can be so well-camoflauged! This blurry photo is the evidence of our quetzal sighting (taken through Gary's binoculars)...it was one of the many moments during our trip when I wished I had a good camera, sigh!

After the quetzal sighting, we had breakfast on the patio, watching rufous hummingbirds and violet sabrewings at the feeder and flying about, doing their crazy dips and dives.

Then we checked out the grounds, found a blackberry patch (Dan picked a bunch for us the next afternoon), and saw a few small rhinoceros beetles on the path.

After relaxing on the deck of our cabin, we followed the map Gary drew us and headed to the bus stop. While waiting for the bus, we saw a farmer harvesting apples from his orchard. He gave us apples to try and showed us around the orchard. People we met in this area were so welcoming and friendly! We took the bus to Santa Maria de Dota for a tour at Coopedota, a 50 year-old coffee cooperative with over 800 member farms. An oxcart passed by the cafe where we were meeting our guide. Oxcarts were the primary mode of transport for coffee and other crops before paved roads and the highway came along, and it is a national symbol of the country. Our guide Gabi knew the cattle herder...it's a small town, so everyone knows everyone else...and we went for a ride in the oxcart.

Dan got in first.

I thought we would only go a few blocks, but we went all the way to the park, around it, stopped in front of the church, and down a few more streets. The cattle herder was in front leading them, and the man in back kept them in line with a stick. This was the first time pulling the oxcart for these two cattle, so we were the test subjects. I felt kind of silly being lead about town in an oxcart, but it was fun.

After the ride, we went on a tour of the coffee processing center. We learned about the steps of separating the bean from the pulp, removing the husks, and saw where the beans are delivered, washed, dried, sorted, packaged...and probably some other steps that I've now forgotten. We also learned about the cooperative's efforts to be more sustainable and not adversely affect the surrounding rivers, flora and fauna, like diverting the water used to wash and sort coffee for irrigation at the local high school farm, converting the pulp into ethanol, and using the removed husks for fuel to dry the coffee beans. Very impressive!

Most of the coffee is exported, and their buyers include big coffee companies like Peet's and Starbucks. The cooperative also holds online auctions, selling coffee directly to buyers, so awesome. I wonder if any of the small local roasters in San Francisco buy from them. Coopedota produces coffee that is certified by the Rainforest Alliance as well as Dota Tarrazu, the world's first CO2 neutral coffee.

During the tour, we also saw the small experimental farm next to the coffee processing center where shade-grown coffee is grown and new varieties of coffees are tested. The trees have hollow limbs, and when they are pruned in the winter, the cut-off branches are left on the ground. The hollow branches decompose quickly, adding nutrients to the soil.

And there is a hardware store next to the coffee processing center where members can buy supplies for their farm, so cool! I love all the efforts of the cooperative toward conserving the environment and also cutting out the middleman, so of course I bought several pounds of coffee afterwards! And we had lattes at the cafe. Dan got a latte with local honey from the cooperative. And we ate a giant cookie sammich with dulce de leche filling. Mmm...

After we returned to El Toucanet, it started raining and didn't stop all night! So we hung out by the fireplace at the lodge, playing dominos and card games, then enjoyed a dinner of baked local trout. The next morning Kit was keeping watch in front of our cabin deck.

After breakfast we took a walk up from El Toucanet, up up up! The views were gorgeous and we heard lots of birds, but they were too high up in the canopy or hidden in the forest to see. We saw tall groves of native bamboo, lots of butterflies, and a wasp's nest.

Unfortunately we didn't see any emerald toucanets, the namesake of the lodge. But we did see the parrots that occasionally land in the tree outside our cabin. Squawk squawk!

We enjoyed the verdant forests, mountain views, and atmosphere of the small villages in Los Santos, but it was time to head south to Drake Bay!

Pura vida: Carribean coast (part 1)

2011-07-09T17:29:00.000-07:00

Dan and I are back from exploring Costa Rica, and we had an amazing time! I had wanted to visit Costa Rica for several years, so my expectations were high...happily, the trip did not disappoint. We spent nearly three weeks there, starting on the Caribbean coast, stopping in the mountains south of San Jose, and then went further south to the Osa Peninsula.

The trip started with a loooong day of travel: Red eye flight from San Francisco, with a stop in San Salvador, taxi from Juan Santamaria airport to San Jose, bus to Guapiles, local bus to Cariari, than another bus to Pavona for the boat to Tortuguero. Phew!

We met a bird researcher from Canada who pointed out many birds and wildlife on the boat ride, which was a great way to start the trip! I remember seeing a toucan fly by, a male great currasow bobbing its head, and green basilisk lizards sunning and scampering across the water.

The next morning we went on a boat tour of the Tortuguero canals with Roberto from Casa Marbella, the B&B where we stayed. We saw (and heard) howler monkeys, also saw spider monkeys, a very-well camouflaged green basilisk lizard, a caiman, iguana, and river otters! Many parrots flew by, but they were too high overhead to see clearly. After breakfast on the deck, we explored the small village, went to the Sea Turtle Conservancy, and checked out the beach. In the afternoon we did a short hike in Tortuguero national park, but the only animals we saw were two dogs! They caused some Montezuma's oropendolas to fly out of a tree. We did see turtle tracks on the beach at the end of the trail.

After dinner (yummy Caribbean food at Miss Junie's), we went on a night turtle walk. The official nesting season does not start until July, but other travelers staying at Casa Marbella had seen two green turtles nesting the previous night, so we were hopeful. About an hour into our walk on the beach, there was a green turtle digging a nest on the beach, but she ended up not laying any eggs, and we saw her return to the ocean. I wondered if the presence of people affected her decision to not lay eggs, but the guides said that was not the case. Not sure, but hopefully they are right.

The next day we took a walk on the beach, then hiked up Cerro Tortuguero, an extinct volcano north of the village, which lead to a lovely view of the canal and the beach. The walk through the rainforest was filled with mosquitos. And our guide was...interesting. But we did see bullet ants, red poison dart frogs, and a laughing falcon, and learned a lot about the plants of the rainforest.

The following morning we took the canoe out for a brief paddle and saw a rainbow! Then we headed further down the Carribean coast, starting with a three-hour boat ride from Tortuguero to Moin. Colorful butterflies flew by as we went through the canals...along the way, we saw another caiman, a crocodile, many herons, and roseate spoonbills! They are bright pink birds with a funny-looking bill.

Upon arriving in Moin, we shared a taxi with two other travelers to Punta Uva. It was memorable trip. The driver veered onto the other side of the road often to avoid potholes and went very, very fast. At one point we passed a serious car accident where one car was completely off the road, and our driver inexplicably stopped. We were puzzled, and Dan asked, "Are you going to take a picture?" To which the driver replied, "Yes, I like it" and went out to take photos and assess the damage of the cars involved. I felt quite disturbed and hoped we would make it to our destination alive, and thankfully we did. Upon our arrival at Korrigan Lodge, Bassam the dog barked at the car, and the driver handed me the keys through the window to get the luggage out of the trunk because he was afraid of dogs! He takes photos of car accidents, but he is scared of dogs!

After Erwan showed us the bungalow, where we were greeted by a gecko in the shower, Bassam lead us to the beach! We went for a swim while he watched over our things. Afterwards, he lead us back to the lodge. Such a sweet pooch.

The roars of howler monkeys woke us up at dawn the next morning...their howl is an incredible sound that reverberates long and far...there must be several troops in the area because it sounded like a chorus of howls. After falling back asleep for awhile, we enjoyed breakfast on the patio...fresh-squeezed fruit juice, an assortment of tropical fruits, granola and yogurt, fresh bread, eggs, sausage and bacon, and pan au chocolat...yum! Ingrid told us about activities in the area, then set us up on bikes and we rode to the Jaguar Rescue Center in Playa Chiquita, blue morpho butterflies fluttering past us on the way. The tour started in the monkey house, where rescued juvenile howler monkey babies play, eat and are socialized. Dan and I took turns going inside because cameras are not allowed. (The monkeys try to grab them.) A monkey jumped on my head as soon as we entered. Then some monkeys crawled on me. Not sure if they are playing with the people or treating us as climbing structures. The guide said probably both.

I was taking pictures of Dan in the monkey house when I turned around and saw a baby sloth! Have you seen anything so cute? I proceeded to take 6342835489 photos of the baby sloth and completely forgot about my tour group. (I eventually found them.) I also took some videos.

We saw other animals after that, but I was obsessed with the baby sloths. (Can you tell?) After our visit, we biked around Puerto Viejo and got guanabana and pineapple popsicles from a blind woman who makes them in her home. We passed several creeks on the bike ride back, and I saw two toucans fly overhead.

Back at Korrigan Lodge, Erwan and Ingrid showed us a hole in a tree where a toucan nests, and we saw the keel-billed toucan sitting on the branch! Toucans always seem cheerful to me, with their huge colorful bills. Then Bassam took us back to the beach in the afternoon, where we snorkeled off shore and went swimming. The visibility was not great, but we saw some interesting corals, different from what we've seen in the Yucatan and Hawaii.

The howlers woke us up again the next morning, and after another delicious breakfast on the patio, we biked to Manzanillo, where Omar met us and lead us on a hike in the Gandoca Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge, pointing out monkeys, birds, insects, snakes, spiders, millipedes, bats, sloths (!) and more...he also told us about the plants of the rainforest. We saw some interesting plants and very big trees. He also opened two kinds of coconuts for us to try. One was a green pipa that we drank the juice from, then a larger one that has a nut in it...first we drank the juice, then ate some of the white flesh of the nut. Yummy.

Near the end of our hike, Omar pointed out a sloth...my first sloth sighting in the wild! This was an adult two-toed sloth, quite high up in the tree. Omar tried tapping the branches, but the sloth did not budge. Apparently they sleep 18 hours a day, or more. Then later on (after showing us some bats fly out of the curled leaves of a plant, so cool), we saw a juvenile three-toed sloth in a tree much closer to us. Omar made the mating call to get the sloth to look up from behind the leaves. It was the highlight of the day for me, since I had come to Costa Rica in hopes of seeing nesting turtles, toucans, sloths, and monkeys.

In the afternoon we snorkeled off shore at Manzanillo, where Dan saw a ray and apparently I had a close call with a passing boat...I didn't even realize it until Dan told me after we got out of the water. We biked back to Korrigan Lodge, and saw a troop of howler monkeys eating leaves in the trees and peering at the passersby on the road. I loved the Carribean coast, but it was time for our next destination. Next up, Los Santos....

Spring break down south

2011-04-10T13:22:00.000-07:00

Dan and I are back after a week of exploring Baja California Sur, where we celebrated his birthday and escaped for spring break. Spring, hooray! I took advantage of a fare sale a few months ago and am so glad I did. Baja California is very different from the Yucatan Peninsula, and it was interesting to see another part of Mexico. We flew into Los Cabos and drove through the desert landscape, including a bumpy ride on a winding dirt road, to the quiet seaside village of Cabo Pulmo.

After a dinner of guacamole, fish tacos and lobster chile relleno, we walked down a path toward the beach, trying to find the market. Cabo Pulmo is off the grid, and there are no streetlights after dark...or streets, really...just dirt paths. We were admiring the amazing display of stars in the sky when a barking dog approached, but we could barely see in the darkness. I got so scared and managed to duck into the fence of a nearby house! Luckily the person staying there heard the dog too, and did not mind us intruding. He turned out to be a scientist visiting from La Paz (where we were going next) to tag sharks in the Sea of Cortez, very cool. He was so nice and gave us a ride safely past the still barking dog, dropping us off at the restaurant. Quite an adventure for our first night! When we returned to the market the next day, the dog was nowhere to be seen. It was probably just protecting its territory in the dark, but yikes! Usually the dogs we encounter while traveling are friendly or just sleeping.

After breakfast the next morning, we drove down another dirt road to Playa Los Arbolitos, a beautiful beach south of town.

Playa Los Arbolitos

From here, we hiked along the rocks to Playa La Sirenita, apparently also known as Dinosaur Egg Beach...maybe because the big round rocks look like dinosaur eggs. The beach was empty when we got there, and we snorkeled in the Sea of Cortez. We saw a lot of fish, including many moorish idols (Gill from Finding Nemo), a few long skinny coronetfish (I think), a sea star, and corals...visibility was so-so. A few tour boats arrived to snorkel too...guess it was the spot!

Dan hiking

Playa La Sirenita

Interesting rock formations

After snorkeling, we hiked back to Playa Los Arbolitos, and went back to town for lunch at La Palapa, which is right on the beach. (Again passing the scene of the barking dog, but luckily the culprit was nowhere to be found.) There was still some fog on the water...we were told it was the first foggy day in many months...guess it followed us from San Francisco...but the fog lifted by the time we finished lunch, and we took a walk on the beach. We spent the rest of the afternoon reading, relaxing, and enjoying the view from the hilltop house where we stayed. Then we went to Tito's for their Saturday night buffet!

Post-snorkel and hikes

Lunch at La Palapa

Walk on the beach after lunch

View from the hilltop house

The next morning we hiked a trail near the hilltop house that lead to some great views of the bays of Cabo Pulmo. Lots of cacti, bare trees, also saw some birds and jackrabbits.

Cacti on the trail

View from the mountains

Then we were off to La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur. I did not realize we would be driving through the mountains to get there...it seemed every few meters was another sign warning dangerous curve ahead...I was holding on tight the entire journey! But we arrived safely, had fish tacos for lunch, and explored the city in the afternoon. We walked along the water on the malecon and observed there are many ice cream shops in La Paz, which made me quite happy. Dan loved the thick waffle cones, and we also had refreshing tropical fruit paletas (popsicles) many times during our trip. Mmm.

On the malecon

Popsicle time

La Fuente

The next morning we enjoyed a delicious breakfast of fruit, yogurt, and ebleskiver (spherical Danish pancakes) on the patio at Casa Tuscany Inn, and went on boat ride to Isla Espiritu Santo to swim with the sea lions. We saw several humpback whales along the way, and passed through a narrow channel where the rock has separated from the island. We also saw manta rays jumping out of the water, then belly-flopping down, plop! So funny. Then we arrived at the sea lion colony...hundreds of sea lions, swimming, sunbathing, and barking noisily. The water was cold at first, and I got stung by a jellyfish, but it was worth it! We swam among schools of sardines, literally swirling walls of tiny silver fish, and saw huge sea bass and other fish down below them, and the sea lions swam all around us. We also played with a juvenile sea lion, the pups are very playful. It was an incredible experience.

On the boat

Approaching the divide

Isla Espiritu Santo

Sea lion colony

Sunbathing on the rocks

Afterwards, we stopped for lunch at Ensenada Grande, a gorgeous beach. Lunch was prepared by the guide and boat captain...guacamole, ceviche, and ham sammiches!

Ensenada Grande

Ready for lunch

The boat

After lunch, we saw dolphins! I got up to the front of the boat, and they were so close...inches away...it was amazing. They jump out of the water so quickly, I didn't try to get a photo. The guide also showed us some interesting rock formations, including a scary face and a profile with a hooked nose, and we passed an old pearl farm. The tide was too low to go into the mangrove canals, but we did see a couple of goats...the guide said they can drink the salt water! And the captain showed us a puffed up pufferfish, so funny looking. Then it was back to La Paz. What a great trip! (Of course we had ice cream afterwards.)

The next morning we visited Ibarra Pottery, where we watched them make and paint clay pottery by hand, then headed back to the malecon for lunch...fish tacos and giant chocolate clams! Yum. During lunch we noticed some police and big fancy cars on the street, as well several body guards around and in the restaurant. Dan asked about it, and our waiter said the governor of the state was there, meeting with other government officials, as it was the first day of the new government. We didn't know which one was the governor though, but I did see some important-looking men leave the restaurant and get into a big car.

Almeja chocolata

Then it was off to Todos Santos on the Pacific coast! The drive was much quicker and smoother, and thankfully no curvas peligrosas. This area is much more verdant compared to the desert landscape on the east...our room at Casablanca B & B overlooked a valley full of palm trees. After enjoying drinks and snacks on the patio, we headed to the beach. On the path we passed by La Poza, a freshwater lagoon, where there are supposed to be many birds, but we saw mostly coots...but later on our way back we also saw a bobcat! There was nobody on the beach, just us, the turkey vultures, and a few pelicans flying over us. The surf was incredible, huge crashing waves.

Palm oasis

La Poza

Playa Las Pocitas

We had dinner in town at Tre Galline, an Italian restaurant, where we were treated to polenta with gorgonzola to start...mmm, then we had a lovely eggplant, tomato and mozzerella appetizer, and I had handmade spaghetti with sardines and anchovies, so delicious! It was the second time we had a scrumptious Italian meal in Mexico; the first time was three years ago at Piedra Escondida in Tulum. Apparently a lot of Europeans are settling in Todos Santos, in addition to Americans.

The next morning we were treated to the first of three incredible breakfasts at Casablanca B & B and Isabel and Gabriel, the hosts. We awoke to a tray of coffee with homemade almond cookies and two kinds of biscotti outside our door. Breakfast was on the patio overlooking the beautiful garden and the Pacific Ocean, and we spotted woodpeckers and other birds each morning. We started with a huge platter of tropical fruit, including amazingly sweet mangos and caramelized bananas drizzled with honey and cinnamon...then there was fresh yogurt with homemade granola...then freshly baked scones with two kinds of homemade preserves...oh and a cappucino...then the savory course...baklava with mushrooms with cheese, with asparagus wrapped in pancetta. It was the most amazing breakfast I've ever had, and in such a gorgeous setting. Sadly, I didn't have my camera to document the deliciousness. I was too busy eating. After breakfast Isabel gave us a tour of the garden, and showed us the dried chiles she was preparing for the enchilada sauce for the next day's breakfast. (Which proved to be amazing!)

Then we went into town to explore, stopping first at the farmers market at La Esquina, which felt like being back in San Francisco again. Todos Santos is an interesting place. The historic district is filled with restored old brick buildings, with many art galleries, shops, cafes and restaurants. There are so many foreigners, it almost doesn't feel like being in Mexico! But then a block away from the historic district, it feels like Mexico again, with taco stands and mini supers. Todos Santos was designated a Pueblo Magico (magical town) a few years ago, and it was the second one we visited in Mexico. I definitely sensed a magical feel when I went to Izamal in the Yucatan, it felt like an old place that had not changed...Todos Santos seems more of an expatriate community.

Dan checks out cactus flowers

Colors at Galeria Logan

Mosaic gate at Galeria Logan

Gazebo in the town square

Dan liked the bicycle painting

Brick building with saint statue looking down

Gate with carvings at Caffe Todos Santos

In the afternoon we headed to Playa Las Palmas, a secluded beach south of town. The Pacific Ocean was too cold to swim in, but I napped under the beach umbrella while Dan read his book. We relaxed some more at Casablanca B & B before a sunset walk on Playa Las Pocitas.

After another amazing breakfast the next morning we looked for shells on the beach, and I saw an osprey catch a fish in the ocean! Then we went for a bike ride through town, to the beach on the other side. We rode by some noisy roosters, a burro, cows and horses...passed by the baseball stadium, spotted a gallery outside of town, and of course stopped for ice cream and popsicles.

Horseback rider on the beach

Later in the afternoon we went to Punta Lobos to see the fishing boats come back to shore. We were too late, and fishermen were already selling their catches of the day.

Fish market on the beach

After our final breakfast, it was time to head to the airport! We drove through Cabo San Lucas and stopped at Playa Palmilla, where I went for one last swim in the Sea of Cortez with the pelicans.

Playa Palmilla

And then it was time to go home! The week flew by, and we had a wonderful time. Hard to believe I will be back at school tomorrow!

2011

2011-01-01T13:34:00.001-08:00

Happy New Year!

I managed to stay up until midnight and watch the fireworks over the city, which went on for quite awhile...Arrow did not like the fireworks one bit...but then, she didn't care for her Christmas outfit either.

Santa Paws napping

Grr

She got dressed up for the annual sweet 'n knit, which brought many friends, kiddos, and delectable sweets to share...even some knitting! I made peppermint bark, which is an annual tradition, and peppermint patties for the first time. (I then proceeded to make peppermint patties three more times during the month of December.)

Peppy

Cooky

Nibby

I also made a giant cheese ball shaped like a pumpkin, which I had been obsessed with since fall...not sure why. But I finally got to make it!

Punkin cheese

This year's party favors were tins of the best chai tea mix, which has candied ginger and smells divine...The Kitchn has provided all sorts of inspiration!

Basket o' chai

I also made gingerbread and mulled apple cider, my favorite smells of the holiday season, plus the tree, of course! Other holiday fun included brunch with the Chous and Los, checking out the wares at Renegade, a delightful holiday luncheon at a coworker's house, the end-of-year pub quiz at Edinburgh Castle...seeing friends, making treats, and just relaxing. I made another batch of peppermint bark and honey lacquered almonds with rosemary and black pepper to give as holiday treats for Dan's coworkers.

Sweet 'n savory

I also made a gingerbread shack this year, using a kit from Trader Joe's. (I added a bunch of candy to it.) The lesson I learned: gingerbread houses are so much harder to decorate than it would seem.

Lil' piggy in the doorway

After Christmas, we drove down to LA to visit my brother, picking my mother up along the way. I had not been down south in many years, and the drive took much longer than I remembered. We ate waaaay too much, visited Universal Studios, hiked a trail in Griffith Park, and I finally tried Pinkberry!

La la land

And now it's 2011, wow!

End-of-summer weekends

2010-09-06T20:43:00.000-07:00

I made it through the first week of school! I was exhausted by Friday, but it was a good week. I even rode my bike each day, as the ride to school is much shorter than to the Exploratorium. My goal is to bike while it is light in the evening, and until it starts raining. I don't think I can do it in the dark or the rain.

As the end of summer approached, each weekend became even more precious...they went by so quickly! In August Dan took me to Chez Panisse for a belated birthday dinner. It was my first time eating downstairs. How to describe the experience...I thought it would be difficult to live up to my expectations, but I need not have worried...it was amazing! The food was delicious, and everyone was so nice. They even let us walk through the kitchen at the end, which was gorgeous, of course. I was so happy. Then we went to hear Noe Venable perform at the Hillside Club. A perfect evening!

Post dinner, very contented

The following weekend Dan was a groomsman in Derek and Kimberlee's wedding. The ceremony was at Nestldown, a beautiful retreat in the Santa Cruz Mountains. There is whimsy all over the grounds, including a miniature play cottage, fully furnished!

Miniature play cottage

The place is like a dreamland for children....animal-themed sculptures and topiaries dot the grounds...real bunnies too...and a butterfly bench.

Butterfly bench

During the break between the morning ceremony and the wedding banquet in the evening, we visited baby Chase, who is chubby and adorable. I was too busy holding him to take any photos. I did make him a reversible bib.

Monkeys & pooches

I made a bib for my coworker's daughter too, who arrived yesterday! Looking forward to meeting baby Tabitha soon.

Tadpoles & flowers

And then! This weekend we celebrated Debbie & Rafe's wedding at the Ralston White Retreat, an old mansion in the redwood forest near Mount Tamalpais. It was a lovely spot, and the ceremony was beautiful. Such a perfect day!

McBerg

I was having so much fun that I forgot all about my camera...I didn't even think to take pictures of the cupcakes I made for the reception! Diana and I did get a shot together at the end of the night...our table was right next to the piano and library.

Two teachers in the library

I also made an apron for Debbie as part of the wedding gift. (I didn't think to photograph the accompanying dishsoap apron and cloth napkins.)

Kitchen floral

Ahh, late summer weekends....already am looking forward to the next one!

Island life

2010-08-08T18:03:00.001-07:00

I am back in the foggy city after a week on the big island of Hawaii...and I wish I were still there! Dan and I had so much fun exploring the island, the time flew by far too quickly. The first thing we did after landing (and picking up the rental car) was go for a swim at Hapuna Beach...I was so happy to be on the island!

First swim

From there, we drove through Waimea, where we ate lunch and stopped at a farmers market for fresh bread (still warm!), ripe tomatoes, tiny green beans, and beautiful baby lettuces. And purple peppers and broccoli. We also picked up honey and avocados from a stand near these cuties.

Sheepies in Waimea

Then we made our way to Honoka'a, where I ate my first hot malasada, a Portuguese doughnut, at Tex Drive-In. Dan had pineapple filling, and I had Bavarian cream. Then we shared a plain one. Yummy. They make a lot of malasadas at Tex Drive-In. We would be back for more the next day.

Cutting and frying

We enjoyed the dusk color in the sky over the ocean from our cottage, and I made dinner with the goodies we picked up earlier. A great first day!

Dusk color

After breakfast that included fresh pineapple from the garden, we headed to Waip'o Valley the next morning. The view from the overlook was gorgeous.

Morning view

The 25% grade road down to Waip'o Valley is steep. Our rental car was not a 4W D, so we hiked down the almost 1-mile, 900-ft descent. Yikes! But it was worth it...the valley is so green and lush, like a tropical wonderland.

Lush greenery

Our plan was to hike into the valley and go swimming near Hi'ilawe Falls. We saw and heard so many birds along the way...also butterflies. After crossing a stream, we were unsure about the trail. So we headed to the beach instead. And spotted a couple of mongooses.

Dark sand beach

We hiked over the beach rocks to find Kaluahine & Waiulili Falls. Dan was very fast hopping over the rocks. I was slower and spotted some stripey lava rocks and many lil' crab exoskeletons. Eventually we saw a trickle that may have been Waiulili Falls. Luckily, the ocean view made up for the lack of waterfall.

Standing on a big rock

From there we hiked back over the rocks and ate lunch by the stream...and then we had to hike up the hill! The sun was out, and there were many more visitors by the time we made it back up to the overlook.

Afternoon view

After all that hiking, we took a drive along Old Mamalahoa Highway, donned our headlamps, and checked out a lava tube cave formed from Mauna Kea lava flow. The cave entrance was covered in ferns. We did not venture very far into the cave, there were so many different paths, and I was afraid we might get lost. Also, it was spooky! But we did see stalactites and sap-covered tree roots on the cave ceiling, and a few strange white silky egg cases (maybe?). Mysterious...

Dan the spelunker

After all that exploring, it was time for malasadas! This time I had chocolate cream, and Dan had guava. Yummy.

Malasada!

After our snack, we checked out the tropical garden by the parking lot. Dan likes these firecracker flowers, or at least that is what he calls them.

Dan with firecrackers

My friend Jeff likes to point out hibiscus flowers, so we thought of him each time we spotted them...we saw them in so many colors on the island!

Yellow hibiscus

The next morning we left Honoka'a and headed south. We took a scenic detour along Old Mamalahoa Highway, crossed over an old bridge and stopped at a pretty park.

Stream at Waikaumalo Park

The scenic detour was indeed very lovely. So many palms and ferns, tropical plants and flowers, and little streams off the side of the road. We also stopped at an old Japanese cemetery, surrounded by greenery. It felt very peaceful there.

Honohina Cemetery

Then I had my first shave ice! Yummy. We also stopped at Onomea Bay and hiked the short trail to shore. There is so much to see on the island!

Onomea Bay

Then it was time for a blackberry malasada at Baker Tom's. I think I like Tex's malasadas better, but this one was good too.

Dan eating blackberry malasada

Nourished with shave ice and malasadas, we embarked on a tour of waterfalls. First up was Akaka Falls State Park, where we hiked the loop trail and saw tiny Kahuna Falls. The tropical forest was so green! At the end of the trail was Akaka Falls, whose long drop was a bit more impressive.

Akaka Falls

In Hilo, we stopped at Rainbow Falls. It had been raining on and off throughout the morning, but it was too overcast to see any rainbows...especially since there was barely a waterfall! It was funny to see all the people getting off the tour buses to see this tiny waterfall.

Rainbow Falls

We continued up the road to Boiling Pots and Pe'epe'e Falls; these pools feed the waterfall downstream. It reminded Dan of Semuc Champey in Guatemala, on a much smaller scale...but we couldn't swim here.

Boiling pots

So we continued on, over a bridge, upstream to Wai'ale Falls. We hiked up to the falls and went swimming in some of the pools that feed the waterfall. Dan thought the water would be too cold, but I convinced him to jump in. It was very refreshing.

Wai'ale Falls

Swimming

On the hike back, we saw more pools on the other side of the trail! We'll have to return someday to explore more.

More pools!

After our waterfall tour, we had lunch in Hilo. We went to Cafe 100 where Dan had loco moco with Portuguese sausage. I had the Island Girl plate lunch...beef teriyaki, tempura shrimp, and the requisite two scoops of rice and one scoop of macaroni potato salad...so much food! (I shared with Dan.)

Dan with loco moco

After lunch I had my second shave ice of the day at Itsu's. This one had lychee and lilikoi (passionfruit) syrups, azuki beans, and condensed cream. Yummy. Dan had one too.

Second shave ice

We left Hilo and drove on to Crater Rim Cabin, just outside Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. How to describe this place...it's like a dream. The coziest most perfect cabin in a forest near a volcano. Barry welcomed us and gave us a tour; we also learned from him that the island was in the midst of a multi-year drought, hence the barely-there waterfalls. We decided to go into the park and check out the lava flow that evening. (When we returned, he had hung up our damp clothes and towels to dry. Such service!) After stopping at the visitor center, we got our first view of Kilauea Iki and Halema'uma'u craters. The volcanic landscape is quite a sight.

Kilauea Iki

We also went into Thurston Lava Tube, which is HUGE! We walked through the lit part of the cave, then continued on through the unlit extension with our headlamps and flashlights. Lots of interesting rock formations, stalactites...also spotted more of those strange white silky egg cases (?) that we saw in the first cave. At the end we turned off our lights and were surrounded by complete darkness. Eerie!

Then it was onto Kalapana for possible lava flow viewing. We stopped first at a farmers market in Kea'au for cucumbers, lychees, and strawberry papayas. We also got "banana snacks," which are dried bananas that taste like banana candy. (There are so many varieties of bananas on the island! We mostly ate the small "apple banana" variety. Delicious.)

When we arrived at the end of the road, I was disappointed that we could not see the water, as I was hoping to see lava flow into the ocean! The pahoehoe lava covered the landscape, though there were still houses scattered about...very surreal.

For sale

Pahoehoe lava as far as the eye can see

As darkness approached, some glowing lava appeared in the distance. The flow increased over time. So amazing that the sunlight obscures the glow, so it is only visible at night. We also saw trees catch fire from lava further away! And the red glow from lava falling into the ocean...though we could not see the actual lava flowing into the ocean.

Lava!

After the excitement of seeing lava flow, we drove back to the cabin, where we were greeted by fresh flowers from the garden, books about the area and local bird and flower guides, a cozy fireplace, and a king bed warmed with an electric blanket. The kitchen was stocked with fresh fruit, bread, cereal, milk, eggs, coffee, honey, jam and more...and we fixed ourselves a hearty breakfast the next morning. We also packed a lunch and were off to the park again. We hiked part of Crater Rim Trail, passing by many steam vents and even saw a rainbow!

Rainbow in Halema'uma'u crater

Then we made our way over to the Sulphur Banks, where there were colorful crystal formations, more steam vents, and a strong sulphur smell.

Sulphur Banks

After checking out the galleries at Volcano Art Center, we drove down Chain of Craters Road and hiked the Pu'u Huluhulu trail...more pahoehoe lava...

Dan hiking the lava

We had lunch at the end of the trail, and saw what we think was Pu'u O'o crater steaming in the distance, the source of the lava flow from the previous night. Not sure though.

Pu'u O'o, possibly

We continued down Chain of Craters Road to the ocean and checked out the Holei Sea Arch. Then we returned to the cabin to relax after all that exploring! We also tasted some interesting wines at Volcano Winery, like Hawaiian Guava and Macadamia Nut Honey. Not sure if I loved the taste, but the aromas were wonderful. At dusk we returned to the park to see Halema'uma'u crater glow at night, from Jaggar Museum. The red glow of magma beneath the surface appeared brighter as the sky darkened.

Halema'uma'u steaming at dusk

Red glow of Halema'uma'u at night

As it got darker, we saw so many stars in the sky...and swirly white galaxies too. I think we saw the Milky Way, but maybe also Andromeda? Not sure though. The next morning we had breakfast and packed up, then reluctantly bid farewell to the cabin. But first we took a final stroll through the dahlia garden.

Dahlia garden

Posing with dahlias

Then we were off to the Kona coast! We stopped at Punalu'u black sand beach to see the sea turtles. There were so many! Most of them were swimming in the tidepools, munching on seaweed...others were basking on the beach.

Honu

Black sand beach

I was so excited about the turtles that we somehow dropped the camera in the ocean. Oops. (The pahoehoe lava was slippery.) Who knew a few seconds in the water completely ruins a camera? Luckily it was an old camera, and later I was able to retrieve the photos on the memory card. Phew!

After lunch at the beach, we had a mango malasada (not so good) at Punalu'u Bake Shop, sampled Hawaiian sweet bread, strolled through the garden, and smelled the flowers at a farmers market...then tasted coffee and macadamia nuts somewhere along the way, I fell asleep in the car...and then we arrived at Ka'awa Loa in Captain Cook! Michael gave us a tour of the house and garden, then set us up on the lanai with mango juice, macadamia nuts, and freshly baked double chocolate brownies. I was so happy. After a soak in the hot tub and a refreshing shower in the outdoor lava showers, we went into town for a new camera and dinner at Rapanui Island Cafe. Yummy.

The next morning I wandered the garden, read on the lanai, and had a delicious breakfast made by Michael: banana pancakes and pineapple-bacon sausages (and soysages), pineapple, mango, papaya, and bananas from the garden, plus Kona coffee and fruity yogurt smoothie...mmm...what a great start to the day! We got some snorkel gear from the garage, rented a double-kayak, and drove down to Kealakekua Bay.

Kealakekua Bay

We kayaked across Kealakekua Bay to Ka'awa Loa Cove to snorkel and saw so many fish, urchins, and coral. But we did not see any spinner dolphins along the way, so I was very disappointed. (But we saw them later in the day at Pu’uhonua o Honaunau, yay!)

I snorkeled here

I swam most of the way back, which I enjoyed more than kayaking. Then we went to Kalama's for shave ice! I even shared with Dan. I think this one was lychee, lilikoi & guava with coconut cream. Yummy.

Dan eating shave ice

We ended up having lunch at Kalama's too. Dan and I shared the laulau plate lunch. Laulau is kalua pork wrapped in taro leaves...the pork was very salty...served on two huge scoops of rice with a scoop of macaroni potato salad, of course. It was a lot of food.

Carol with laulaus

But I saved room for another shave ice...there's always room for shave ice! It can be a long wait for shave ice at Kalama's, but so worth it. Yummy.

Post-lunch shave ice

After lunch we went to Pu’uhonua o Honaunau, the Place of Refuge. There was a feeling of tranquility throughout the park, with the rustling palm trees and gentle ocean waves. We also saw some sea turtles swimming in the water. The volcanic rock walls are impressively long and wide...apparently the rocks were not cut, and no mortar was used to build them!

Pu’uhonua o Honaunau

Dan with volcanic rock wall

Little honu

After our walk, we went snorkeling near the Place of Refuge, and saw more fish, urchins, and corals. And then! After we got out of the water, we saw spinner dolphins just off shore! So many! I was very happy to see their dorsal fins as they jumped out of the water, since I had been so disappointed earlier in the day. Yay!

After a day of adventure, we went back to Ka'awa Loa and relaxed on the lanai. Then it was dinnertime at Manago Hotel. Dan and I loved the atmosphere at this restaurant. It was like an old-school cafeteria, with lots of families eating dinner together. The side dishes are served first from a cart: a huge bowl of rice, tofu with pork, delicious bean sprouts, and potato tuna noodle salad...and that's just the side dishes! Dan had the pork chops, and I had opelu, after the sides. Delicious.

Dan ready for dinner

The sunset after dinner was gorgeous! Even from the parking lot of Manago Hotel. Aaahh, Hawaii...

Parking lot sunset

The next morning brought another delicious breakfast: quiche, bacon, sweet taro bread, lilikoi, dragonfruit, starfruit, mango, banana, lychees, pineapple, and jaboticaba, round berries that look like olives and grow on the bark of the tree!

This is the life

The view is pretty good too

After breakfast we went snorkeling at Kahalu'u Beach Park, where we saw even more fish than the previous day's snorkeling. And another sea turtle munching on seaweed. Then it was time for more shave ice. We picked up a BBQ sandwich and Spam musubi, and had lunch at Kua Bay beach.

Lunch time

After lunch we went swimming and boogie boarding. It was so much fun, lots of good waves. And it was Dan's first time boogie boarding! I think he enjoyed it. Then we were off to Kiholo Bay for some more exploring.

Kiholo Bay

Lots of gravel-y sand and pahoehoe lava on the trail. I swam across to visit with three basking sea turtles. We also found a lava rock arch on the trail.

Dan under a lava rock arch

And the Bali House, very fancy. Apparently the owner is Paul Mitchell of haircare fame, and it was built piece by piece in Bali, taken apart and shipped, reassembled in Hawaii...then the wood shrank...or so it said in our guidebook.

Bali House

After the day of exploring, we returned to Ka'awa Loa for a soak in the hot tub, and enjoyed a tasty dinner at Teshima's. And then it was our final morning! So soon! Our last breakfast was Polynesian toast (French toast made with sweet taro bread), Portuguese sausage, pineapple, mango, papaya, dragon fruit, bananas from the garden...so yummy. And then it was off to the airport!

Last morning

Farewell, big island

We had such a wonderful time exploring the island...I was very sad to leave. I can't wait to go back!

Ollalieberry weekend

2010-07-11T22:10:00.000-07:00

Summer is flying by...how can it be July already? I made it through weeks 2 and 3 of my bike commute to the Exploratorium, but I am still sore...will the soreness ever go away? I am learning so much and doing lots of fun activities, like measuring the speed of sound, making a camera obscura by putting a box over my head, taking stop-motion photos with blinky lights, and so much more! Did you know that different colored waters can mix or stay separate in inverted bottles?

Yellow + blue = green (sometimes)

Or how to set paper on fire without burning it?

Safety goggles are a must

I also have been enjoying yummy brunches with friends before my afternoons of science. I love summer! And this weekend, I went ollalieberry picking in Pescadero...I had not been since two summers ago. Jessica's girls Darcy and Molly helped find berries.

At berry level

Afterwards we went to Jeff's favorite beach in Half Moon Bay. I had a great time watching the girls run around on the sand.

Beach time

I especially enjoyed watching Molly toddle about, picking up rocks and sand.

Collecting rocks

And I saw the dorsal fin of a dolphin in the water! (This after a barn owl sighting in the backyard the night before...what a great weekend of wildlife viewing!) It was a long walk back to the car, so Molly rode on Dan's shoulders for part of the way.

Hitching a ride

She didn't stay there for long though, she can be very wriggly when carried...she wants to walk! We also saw many little bunnies on the path.

And today I made a pie with all the ollalieberries. It turned out a bit soupy, but still tasty.

Mmm....pieeee...

The pie was finished quickly at the first summer sit 'n knit. Such a fun weekend!

Science, art & human perception

2010-06-27T09:23:00.000-07:00

Finished week 1 at the Exploratorium Teacher Institute, and I am loving it so far! Some highlights from class...we dissected a cow's eye, which was huge!

Googly eye

I vaguely recall a cow's eye dissection in elementary school, but do not remember the details. (Let's not think about what this says about the effectiveness of my chosen profession.) Did you know there is a beautiful iridescent blue surface that looks almost like an abalone shell at the back of a cow's eye? It's the tapetum, a reflective surface at the back of the eyes of crepuscular and noctural animals. So amazing! There were other cool projects during the week...including making a record player with just a pencil, straight pin, and a piece of paper wrapped into a cone...I'm still in awe that it works!

Each day the teachers have a few hours of project time for exploring, and a few hours of class time. On the first couple of days, I wandered around the museum during my project time, trying out exhibits, as well as observing children and adults interact with the exhibits. Drawing Board, the exhibit I remember most from a childhood field trip, is still one of the most popular. And it was still fascinating for me to watch beautiful spirograph-like patterns created by the swinging motion of the weighted wood table. I also started a project in the machine shop and did a bit of exploring in the library...so much good stuff!

One afternoon I encountered this sign...

They're eating pie in there!

I need to find out how to get invited to the pie workshop. Hmmm....

A big challenge for the summer was getting over my fear of biking in San Francisco traffic. My plan was to commute by bike, since riding Muni would take forever, especially with recent changes in service (i.e. less service), and not having a car. On the recommendation of my friend Jessica, I took a (free!) two-part urban cycling workshop earlier in the month, and it helped me so much. I highly recommend the workshop to everyone...in fact, I think all motorists should take the first part of the workshop! I also used SF BikeMapper to plan my route, which is 6.7 miles each way! I biked three times during week 1 (slowly) and had lots of sore muscles, but hopefully strength is building. Wish me luck for week 2!

Looking for waterfalls

2010-06-18T08:39:00.000-07:00

Dan and I took Arrow on a little camping trip before I start the Summer Teacher Institute at the Exploratorium next week. After a very long drive, we arrived at McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park, where I heard the thundering sound of millions of gallons of water falling as we checked in with the ranger at the park entrance. According to the park brochure, Theodore Roosevelt called Burney Falls a wonder of the world when he saw it...I do not know if that is true, but the falls are truly spectacular.

Can you see the rainbow?

Many rainbows can be seen as water falls into the pool below...so beautiful! Dan and I hiked the loop trail, admiring the waterfalls from various perspectives and saw the creek that feeds it. Photos do not capture the experience of being there...you should go if you have not seen it!

Dan on the trail

On the trail

In the afternoon, we took the canoe and paddled on Lake Britton, where we saw a bald eagle and golden eagle! Later, a park ranger told us about Clark Creek Falls, another waterfall on the other side of the lake, so we paddled across the lake again the next day to look for it. We found a creek and walked along it for a bit, but after crossing the creek once already, the "trail" ended. The prospect of crossing the creek another time where the (very chilly) water rushed by quickly seemed too precarious for me. The spot where the creek fed into the lake was very pretty, dotted with wildflowers and butterflies flitting about...even if I am not sure if it was the right place!

Idyllic spot

Getting back to the canoe

From Burney, we made our way to Lake Lewiston in Shasta-Trinity National Forest. After surveying the available campsites, we chose site #6 by the water.

Campsite #6

After setting up camp and unloading the canoe, we had dinner with my friend Caille and her husband Marc at Jack's Grill, an old school steakhouse in Redding. The restaurant was so dark, I could barely see! But the food was yummy, and Dan wants to go back. Caille and Marc took us to the Sundial Bridge after dinner. We saw a bald eagle soaring in the sky over the Sacramento River as we walked across the bridge...wow!

Sacramento River at dusk

Look out for the orange cone

Sundial tip

The bridge really is a sundial...so neat. And there are miles and miles of hiking and biking trails along the Sacramento River...want to check that out on our next visit.

The next morning we paddled on Lake Lewiston, looking for birds and beavers on the quiet lake surrounded by the snow-capped peaks of the Trinity Alps. Arrow napped in the sun while we paddled.

Pretty view from the canoe

Napping beagle

In the afternoon, we hiked the trail to Whiskeytown Falls, a long and impressive waterfall. We climbed the steps alongside the fast rushing water to get a better view.

Part of the falls

On top of the stairs

Posing with beagle

The mosquitos were in full force when we returned to camp, and I had to admire the lake view from our tent. I still am covered in itchy bites...bleh! After dark we toasted marshmallows over the fire and looked at the stars in the sky. Dan even set up the Galileoscope, a simple telescope I assembled from the Chabot Space Center, but we couldn't really see much with it. Maybe I should read the directions...hmm....

In the morning we packed up camp while Arrow sunbathed.

It's a tough life

Before heading home, we met up with Caille one more time in Redding, where I got the largest single scoop of ice cream I have ever seen! I should have taken a picture before I gobbled it up. Then it was time for the long drive home. California is a very big state, and I am glad I got to see new parts of it on this trip!

The year so far

2010-06-10T21:27:00.000-07:00

Summer vacation is here, hooray! Today I had a delightful fancy lunch with two of my favorite ladies to kick off the summer...the Dine About Town menu at Spruce was quite yummy.

What else has been going on this year?

In late January, the chickies began laying eggs. Dan discovered the first egg, laid by Henrietta, the Rhode Island Red.

Little brown egg

By February, all the girls were laying eggs of pretty colors. Rosie and Poppy, the Ameraucanas, lay blue-green eggs. Goody, the Buff Orpington, laid pale (buff) eggs. As the daylight hours increased, egg production went up as well...the eggs got bigger too!

Egg color palette

To ring in the year of the tiger, Dan and I took Arrow to Lake Tahoe for some relaxing, cross country skiing, and playing in the snow. My brother and Margi joined us for part of the time.

North shore

On the cross country ski trail

Pi Day was celebrated in March with four kinds of pie: blueberry pie, coconut cream pie, lemon meringue pie, and s'more pie. Dan and I attended Steven and Lisa's wedding at the end of the month, and I made cupcakes for the reception.

Wedding cupcakery

In April, Dan and I took Arrow camping in Big Sur, part of Marie's birthday celebration. We went to a beach with purple sand, the wildflowers were blooming, and we saw sea otters. I want to go back.

Purple sand at Pfieffer Beach

Coastline

Sunset view from the campsite

Wildflowers in Ventana Wilderness

At the end of the month, I hosted a baby shower for twin mommies-to-be. Bibs have been made for recently-arrived and on-the-way babies. Very exciting...so many babies!

Baby shower cupcakes in progress

Pepper-themed shower favors

May was sibling graduation month. Johnny graduated from medical school...my brother is a doctor! Then Katie graduated from college...my sister is a super star! And I got to visit an Ivy League school. One day in late May, Goody "the most beautifulest chicken" died suddenly. Dan and I were shocked by her death. He sent her to UC Davis for a necropsy, but the results were inconclusive. She had signs of visceral gout, but nothing infectious. We are monitoring the diet of the three other hens carefully and making sure they have plenty of water to drink.

Good bye, Goody

In between, there was teaching, book clubs, girls nights, walks with the beagle, raising silkworms, and all the other things that make up life. My first challenge this summer is to get over my fear of riding my bike in the city and conquer the roads of San Francisco...wish me luck!

2010

2010-01-03T17:39:00.000-08:00

Happy new year!

I was sick for Christmas and much of the break...wah wah, so it only seems fair that I should have at least another week off, don't you think? But alas, that is not the case. Where did the time go? Oh right, I was drinking fluids, sleeping, and being crabby for most of it. But I was finally feeling better and got to see some cuties on New Year's Day.

Molly on the crawl

Dan and I (and Arrow) visited with the Manzi family, and I got to hold baby Molly! She loves to smile and is just starting to crawl, so cute.

Molly & me

Dan & Molly

Molly's big sister Darcy is still cute as ever, of course. She had pasta for lunch, and scooped parmesan cheese on top with gusto. After finishing her plate, she had another, but ended up feeding most of it to their dog Oliver (lucky pooch). And she helped pick oranges for us from the tree in their front yard.

Darcy selecting oranges

After a hike with the pooches in the Pulgas Ridge Open Space Preserve, we went for frozen yogurt in San Carlos. Darcy got "raspberries and strawberries on top, yogurt on the bottom."

Yogurt treat

It was a very fun day with the Manzi family, and I hope to see lots more of them in the new year! Dan and I also are hoping to see the first egg from our chickens soon. Their combs are growing in, but so far no eggs...

Goody "the most beautifulest" (in November)

Goody is the fattest of the girls. Hard to believe they were just tiny balls of fluff five months ago! Goody is "the most beautifulest chicken," according to Chloe, niece of my friend Bethany when they visited back in the fall...tee hee hee! Though Rosie is a pretty girl too...so pretty that Dan was worried for awhile that she might be a rooster.

Rosie the riveter (in November)

She certainly can strike a pose. But she hasn't crowed so far, and we are pretty sure she is a girl. Now, if only they would lay some eggs!

Christmastime is here

2009-12-22T19:36:00.001-08:00

The solstice has passed, and the daylight hours will increase again...hooray! The unhovel is getting festive...we are so glad to be back for our first Christmas. Dan and I got our tree at Liberty Christmas Tree Farm the first Saturday in December, after hitting the Mrs. Grossman's sticker factory warehouse sale. (It was awesome.) The Turkish fir is seven feet tall, maybe a bit too big for our little abode...but it was such a lovely tree, we just had to get it.

Gus Jr. under the tree

I got Dan a Lego advent calendar, and it has been fun seeing the new piece to assemble each day...

Advent with Legos

I hosted another Sweet 'n Knit...only four years later! We had many delectable treats and even did some knitting, but I forgot to photograph any of it...peppermint bark, almond toffee, date balls, gingerbread cupcakes and cookies galore! There were also party favors...red and green pom-poms and silly Christmas stickers.

Last weekend the Chous and Los came over for a holiday brunch, and I filled Christmas crackers with chocolates for party favors. We read the silly jokes and put on the crowns, but alas no photos of the silliness. We had gingerbread waffles and baked ginger apple pancake...with bacon and sausage, of course!

Holiday brunch table

Dan and I also visited with Santa! He was at Tom & Jerry's Christmas extravaganza, which I saw for the first time, despite living in the city for nearly ten years. It was quite spectacular.

Tom & Jerry's

Santa

I also managed to make a bonnet for Georgia. Since Arrow just had a bath, I thought the beagle should try it on first.

My what big eyes you have

And carolers just stopped outside our house tonight! They sang "Up on the Rooftop" for us, with guitar, bells, and a few woofs. Merry Christmas!

Halloween scares

2009-11-01T20:44:00.000-08:00

Eight bags of Halloween candy was not enough! Dan and I (and Arrow-as-Snoopy) ran out of candy in about an hour...we had over 150 trick-or-treaters in that time! We gave out Halloween stickers, pencils, and erasers after the candy was gone, but I think the kids were disappointed. We want candy!

Ernie & Bert

I carved Ernie and Bert pumpkins in the morning. I had a Charlie Brown pumpkin that was carved two weeks earlier at Mary and Marie's autumn party, but alas it was quite moldy when the day arrived.

Charlie Brown pumpkin

We didn't have any other decorations for our first Halloween back at the unhovel, but we are plotting for next year already! Lots of houses on our block have spiders and ghosts and more, and we want to join in the fun.

In other (scary) news, the chickens are still pecking away in the backyard. This morning a peregrine falcon made a swoop for them, but luckily they were in their enclosed run. It was exciting to see a falcon up close, but also quite scary when it went for the girls.

Goody, Henrietta & Rosie's chicken butt

More chicken butts

So now they do not leave their enclosed run unattended!

Backyard pecking

2009-09-19T17:51:00.000-07:00

The girls are six weeks old now, and they look like real chickens! They got to explore the backyard this afternoon, pecking and eating rocks and dirt. I fed them a few fronds from the old fennel plants that Dan planted during the hovel days.

Pecking at fennel

Whatcha looking at, Poppy?

Oh, it's Rosie!

Taking a rest

Hopefully there will be eggs in five months!

Urban farming

2009-08-30T16:11:00.000-07:00

The chickies are growing so fast! They are three weeks old now, and their feathers are coming in...I like to say they are going through their awkward stage.

Enjoying the sunshine

They are still living in the basement under the heat lamp, but we let them out in the backyard for some fresh air yesterday because it was SO HOT! Dan is going to build a coop for them in the backyard, where they will move to when they are fully-feathered in another five weeks.

For urban farming inspiration, Dan and I visited Ghost Town Farm yesterday, which turned out to be just around the corner from our friend Brian's old house. We had been so close to the vacant lot farm, but never knew it was there! I had read about Novella Carpenter's adventures in pig-raising and her farm in San Francisco magazine, and Dan found out there would be an open house as part of the Eat Real festival. He was particularly interested in seeing the humane chicken slaughter demo, in case one of our chicks turns out to be a rooster (please, no...though there is a 5% chance) or for when the girls are past their laying years. I am not so sure about this plan, but figured it would informative. Dan saw a Cuckoo Maran rooster die, but I looked away during the actual deed. I did watch the feather and innard removal...it was definitely a memorable morning.

Afterward, we walked around the farm and saw the beehives and a giant rabbit almost as big as Arrow. Then we visited the chicken coop, saw some of her hens and...little goats!

Goat on awesome green staircase

Posing with goats

We also enjoyed delicious peach cobbler and hibiscus tea, and bought a copy of Novella's book Farm City. (I had reserved it at the library but was #97). Dan has already started reading it.

Open unhovel

2009-08-23T22:20:00.000-07:00

Dan and I opened the unhovel to our friends last weekend...and the occasion called for cupcakes!

Getting ready

I made peanut butter cupcakes with chocolate ganache, apple cupcakes with maple cream cheese frosting, vanilla bean coconut cupcakes, and flourless Mexican chocolate cupcakes...with my sister's help, thankfully! She had just returned from Africa a few days before, and I put her to work peeling and grating a huge pile of apples (from our box), among other things...thanks Katie!

Peanut butter tower

Vanilla bean coconut

Cookie Monster & cuppies

We had a great turnout, and cupcakes were eaten. The chickies were a big hit, and Arrow got some attention too. The kiddos followed her around, and a couple of them even went into her crate! It is toddler-sized, I suppose. I didn't take any photos, but my sister took a few for me, yay! Darcy kept calling Arrow "Harold," tee hee hee...

Darcy & Arrow (aka Harold)

Stefan & Arrow

Our friends brought many pretty flowers.

Summer color

We also had ice cream.

Reaching into the freezer for Mitchell's!

And I got to hold baby Nate! It was a good day. Thanks to all our friends for making it so much fun! We are very happy to be back in the city.

Here chicky chicky

2009-08-08T18:45:00.000-07:00

Four new residents joined the un-hovel today...we got chickies!!

Settling into their new digs

We got four chicks at Half Moon Bay Feed & Fuel...two Ameraucanas, one Rhode Island Red, and one Buff Orpington. They are three days old. The Rhode Island Red is Henrietta. Jeff came with us to Half Moon Bay and named the Buff Orpington Goody Goody Good Chicken...Goody, for short. The Ameraucanas are yet unnamed...any suggestions?

Stripeys are Ameraucanas

We are following the instructions from the Sunset chicken blog. Arrow is pretty excited too.

Wow, chickens, wow!

Wish us luck!

Outdoor summer fun

2009-08-02T21:34:00.000-07:00

Summer is flying by...how can it be August already? Crazy! There are those who do not like the summer fog in the city, but the cool mist does not bother me that much...especially when unbearably sweltering heat covers so much of the state...ugh. But after a week of uninterrupted fog, it is nice to escape to some real summer weather...

Scenic hillside in Eden

So I was off to Eden, Utah! Last year my friend Bethany got a vacation place there, and we had talked about having a girls getaway...so we did it this summer! It was perfect. Bethany, her sister Robyn, Diana, and I took the quick flight there, explored Salt Lake City a bit, drove through a canyon, past a reservoir, and there we were...surrounded by gorgeous hills and pretty wildflowers so different from home.

Wildflowers in Eden

We admired the mountain views, went for cooling dips in the pool, watched movies, and lounged about...it was very relaxing. One day we packed a picnic and visited the nearby reservoir, where we swam in the water, read magazines, sunned and napped, and just enjoyed the view.

Water surrounded by mountains

Diana tests the water

A big house across the water

I even found a bottle of von Hovel Riesling at the State Liquor Store! I don't usually choose white wine, but I had to get it in honor of the un-hovel. We had it one evening, and it was actually quite nice...bright, crisp and slightly effervescent...apropos in my year of sparkling wines.

von Hovel

Dusk over the Cascades at Wolf Creek

Our time in Utah ended too quickly, and it was time to return home. I finally saw Salt Lake from the plane...and salt flats...and red salt! (I think.) Then of course the fog welcomed us back.

Patriotic aerial salt display

But I didn't stay in the fog long...the next morning Dan and I embarked on a weekend camping adventure with friends. We went to Armstrong Redwoods State Park in Guerneville, where Marie, Mary and Brian had staked out a great spot by Bullfrog Pond. We had lunch in town, walked along the bridge over the Russian River, and took a hike in the afternoon. The view of the forested hills and fog in the distance was lovely.

Fog over the hills

Though there were three campstoves between all of us, none were brought...but we managed to have a delicious dinner...as Dan says, food always tastes better outdoors. And he roasted marshmallows over the fire...s'mores just might be the most important part of camping for me! The next morning we picked blackberries, and by nightfall I was enjoying blackberry crumble back in the foggy city. I had been skeptical of camping for just one night since we usually go for a few days, but it was a lot of fun.

Summer crumble yum

Hopefully August will bring sunny days in San Francisco!

Summer travels: Into Honduras (part 4)

2009-07-24T23:04:00.001-07:00

As Dan and I were traveling through Guatemala, we were not sure if we would make it to Honduras because of the political situation...but we met several travelers who had come from there, and they felt that it was completely safe. We also were scheduled to fly home from Roatan, so ultimately we decided to go for it! We took a bus from Rio Dulce to the border, and arrived in Copan Ruinas on a warm afternoon. We were greeted with hammocks and iced tea at Casa de Cafe B&B,...so far, so good! I spent a lot of time lounging in the hammock, reading, and admiring the garden and view of the Guatemalan hills.

Idyllic Casa de Cafe B&B

Guatemalan hills

We ate yummy pupusas at Comedor Mary's and wandered around the cobblestone streets of town. After a delicious breakfast the next morning with Francesca the kitty, we walked to the Mayan ruins site of Copan, where there are many impressive and intricate carvings, and tall trees growing out of the piles of stones. We also saw brilliant scarlet macaws and capybara-like critters at the entrance to the site.

Stela & hieroglyphic staircase

Skulls & glyphs

Big head

Big foot

Watch out!

Nap time

After more hammocking and relaxing in the garden, and another tasty breakfast the next morning, we planned to take a morning bus to San Pedro Sula, then catch a plane to the island of Roatan. Not so fast! The bus did not leave because of road closures...due to demonstrations...and it was not clear when the roads would re-open. After some sulking on my part (it was my birthday) and several calls by the B&B owners, we learned an afternoon bus was departing, so we got on it while we had the chance. Unfortunately there were no more flights that day, instead we took another bus to La Ceiba, spent the night, and took the ferry to Roatan the next morning. So we spent a lot more time traveling than I would have liked, and missed a day of fun...but we arrived at our destination safely! A delicious lobster avocado salad lunch at the Lighthouse cheered me up considerably.

View from the Lighthouse restaurant

It was really hot and humid on the island. After lunch we went snorkeling in Half Moon Bay, where we saw lots of fish, conches, and a hawksbill turtle! I love sea turtles.

Half Moon Bay

It was nice to relax and enjoy the view of the Carribean as the sun set outside our room at Luna Beach, especially after all the effort to get there! Then we walked down the beach to the Lobster Pot, where I had grilled shrimp in rum butter sauce for dinner...yum! They also served homemade key lime pie on the house. It was my new favorite restaurant.

Luna Beach

Sun setting over Carribean

The next morning we took a water taxi to West Bay, which is a beautiful beach. It was so quiet...very few travelers...and this was during the high season. We went snorkeling in the bay; the coral seemed healthier here than in Half Moon Bay. We saw more fish, and about ten little squid all hanging out in a neat row...so cute! During our lunch on the beach, we saw an impressive display of balance...a woman walking with a cooler on her head!

West Bay

Turquoise & blue

Balancing act

Later in the afternoon we went out with a dive boat and snorkeled some more...the water is much choppier out there! In one spot there was a huge school of fish...seemed like hundreds...it was amazing to be so close to so many. It was also neat to see the divers go overboard and descend into the deep waters. I'm still too scared to dive though!

After watching the sunset from the dock, we returned to the Lobster Pot, where Dan and I treated ourselves to surf 'n turf (steak and lobster!) for our last dinner of the trip. And more key lime pie! The people at the restaurant were so nice. Dan asked to see the menu after discovering they serve breakfast...but then found out the restaurant is closed on Sunday! So we bought a loaf of their delicious coconut bread, and they gave us a jar of homemade mango jam to eat with it! We really enjoyed our time in Honduras, and hope the political situtation is resolved peacefully...and soon. The livelihood of so many people on the island depends on tourism. We were glad we were able to visit, and hope that others can too.

We had a wonderful trip on our first visit to Central America, but it was great to come home to the foggy city by the bay!

Summer travels: Jungle & river (part 3)

2009-07-24T18:16:00.000-07:00

Our journey through Guatemala continues...there was a beautiful mist covering the treetops our last morning in the Verapaz mountains...

Misty green in the morning

Dan and I made our way north to the jungle of Peten, taking a "shuttle" that involved first riding a pick-up truck through the twisty-turny, bumpy, muddy roads to Lanquin, where we switched to a van with more passengers...then we actually backtracked to Coban, which we had visited days earlier...argh! But after that, the driver went very, very fast...one of our fellow travelers called the ride "terrifying," and I would have to agree. But we arrived safely, and it was nearly dusk when Dan and I walked to the shore of Lake Peten Itza in El Remate.

Shades of blue

There were people swimming in the lake, and we went for a dip before dark as well...the water was quite warm.

Swimmers in the lake

The next morning we went to Tikal, where walked through the jungle and climbed several tall Mayan ruins.

Tall pyramid in the Gran Plaza

Pyramids in the jungle

Atop a pyramid, more in the distance

Even more exciting, we saw toucans! One toucan turned its head from side to side, showing off its colorfull bill...it was so cute! We also saw monkeys swinging in the treetops, oscillated turkeys pecking on the ground, and many Montezuma's oropendolas with their bright yellow tail feathers and long, woven nests hanging from the tree branches.

After a big rainstorm in the afternoon, we walked along the shore of Lake Peten Itza, looking for birds and other wildlife. Other than the occasional rooster crowing and motorcycle speeding by, it is very quiet and serene.

Horses by the lake

Palapa on a pier

The next morning we headed south to Rio Dulce, near the Carribean coast. Many lodges and hotels are located along the river, where fancy boats are docked as well...we stayed in a bungalow at Tortugal.

Rio Dulce

Approaching Tortugal from the water taxi

The afternoon we arrived, we took a bus from town to the hot springs at Finca El Paraiso. A guide showed us the way through the forested trails to the source of the hot springs...there had been rain in recent days, so the river was silty and not a beautiful emerald green...but the hot springs were still amazing...waterfalls of hot water flowing over a cave into the cold water of the river. The guide pointed above the waterfall, where there were pools of hot water, so we climbed up the rocks over the cave to soak in the hot pools...it started to rain, and we could smell the sulfur in the air...I also heard bats squeaking in the cave...it was so fun!

Refreshed from the hot springs

We saw a lot of cattle and banana plantations on the bus ride back to town. Dan was reading Bananas: How The United Fruit Company Shaped the World on our trip, so it was interesting to actually see the reality...in some places, bananas as far as the eye can see.

The next morning we took a boat trip down the Rio Dulce to the coastal town of Livingston. On the way we passed Castillo de San Felipe, an island where egrets and cormorants nest, lots of water lilies, local fisherman's boats, and we soaked in another spot where hot springs flow into the river...ahhh...

Shades of green

We had lunch in Livingston, where we tried the local specialty tapado, a coconut seafood stew, with plantains, crab, fish, and big shrimp... sooo yummy!

Big bowl of yumminess

We walked around town after lunch and saw kids playing soccer on the beach. We also got coconut bread, coconut cookie bars, and coconut popsicles...then, after the boat ride back, we cooled off with a swim outside Tortugal.

Soccer by the Carribean

Yay, a popsicle shop!

Dan swimming in Rio Dulce

We enjoyed Rio Dulce, but it was time to move on...next up, crossing the border to Honduras!

Summer travels: Las Verapaces (part 2)

2009-07-22T22:26:00.000-07:00

Continuing on our journey through Guatemala...Dan and I took a "chicken bus" from Santiago Atitlan to Guatemala City. Waiting for the bus to leave, we saw piles of avocados in the streets of the village...so many avocados!

Mmm...avocado...

For those of you who may not know, chicken buses are the primary mode of transportation for many Guatemalans. They are old schoolbuses painted bright colors, and they are notoriously fast. I was so enthralled by the avocados that I did not think to take a photo of the shiny red and yellow one we rode. Dan and I heard various statistics...every month a bus goes off a cliff...on average a chicken bus driver is shot monthly...luckily we heard these stories after we rode the chicken bus. (Also, they are known as chicken buses because one may encounter chickens riding on the bus. This happened to us twice, both times it was a box of chirping chickies.) After three hours of more twisty-turny roads, a miracle drug sales pitch, passing by many coffee plantations and corn fields, with lively music the entire way, we arrived in Guatemala City, and rode the Muni (really!) to the bus station for the first-class bus (former Greyhound) to the mountain town of Coban. Finally, we arrived at Casa Duranta, where the rooms surround a beautiful courtyard garden.

Outside our room

Pretty courtyard

While in Coban, Dan and I visited the Finca Santa Margarita coffee plantation. We saw different varieties of coffee plants and tasted ripe coffee berries during the tour...they are sweet! We also learned what cardomam plants look like, crushed allspice leaves to release the aroma, saw coffee beans being roasted, enjoyed a tasty cup of coffee, and even played with a dashchund! The farm also had two pet peccaries, who did a mutual double-nuzzle that was so cute.

Shade-grown coffee

Dan and I explored the town a bit, and climbed a great many steps up to the old temple to see the view of the city. There was a large group of local people gathered outside the temple...not sure why, but we felt like we were intruding, so we headed back down the steps. Dan spotted a Logitech logo outside a shop, so he had to get a picture!

View of Coban from atop the steps

Dan and Logitech logo

In the afternoon we went to the orchid nursery just outside of town, Vivero Verapaz...their collection includes hundreds of orchids native to Guatemala. Most of them bloom between November and February, but we did see some incredibly teeny-tiny orchids...you care barely see the flower! So amazing. There also were several tall pink bromeliads growing on the trees that Dan had never seen before.

From Coban, we took yet another twisty-turn bus ride to Semuc Champey. It was a bumpy ride too, though the views of the lush green hills of the Verapaces were quite lovely. And we saw many, many cornfields in the hills. The Guatemalans seem to grow corn in every available space possible.

We stayed in a cabin at Hostal El Portal, which overlooks the Rio Cahabon. Many of the travelers staying there enjoyed jumping off the bridge into the river...it is a long way down. I wanted to, but was a scaredy-cat. Dan jumped though! The local boys also jumped off, and one little boy named Julio who was selling chocolate was especially impressive...he was so quick and nimble climbing up a tree to get back up to the bridge from the river. Many children in the area sell chocolate that their families have made...we even saw a cacao plant at the entrance of El Portal. I had four round bars during our stay...flavored with cardomam, cinnamon, or vanilla...the chocolate had a slightly grainy texture from the cacao nibs and sugar. So yummy.

Our cabin on the left, bridge in the background

Big pink cacao beans

We heard some other travelers discussing a cave tour the afternoon we arrived, so we decided to join them on a tour of the river-filled caves of K'anba. We were each given a candle, and waded through water to enter the cave. We climbed up and down the rock formations, behind a waterfall, and swam along the way...seeing incredible stalactites and the rushing water of the Rio Cahabon, as well as an occasional bat! It was an unforgettable experience.

The next morning we hiked up a steep, muddy trail to the lookout point, and saw the limestone pools of Semuc Champey, surrounded by the lush green cloudforest...such a lovely setting. The water from Rio Cahabon flows over the pools, as well as through a cave underneath the pools. We walked down to the first series of pools, where we saw the rushing water beneath the limestone caves. Then we made our way through the pools, swimming and jumping from pool to pool...so fun! At the end of the pools, Dan climbed down a rope ladder through a waterfall into the cave beneath, but I was too scared. He actually went underneath Semuc Champey...so amazing!

Semuc Champey from the lookout

Fast-flowing Rio into the cave

Each pool flows down to another layer

Another pool close-up

Dan and I both loved Semuc Champey, and thought the long haul to get there was worth it. We enjoyed the communal meals and meeting fellow travelers...it would have been nice to stay longer, but it was time for our next destination...the jungle of Peten comes up next!

Summer travels: Antigua & Lake Atitlan (part 1)

2009-07-21T11:25:00.000-07:00

I am back in the foggy city after nearly three weeks in Central America! Dan and I went to Guatemala and Honduras for the first time...our friends who have visited both places gave rave reviews, so I decided we should go...I planned the trip as a distraction during the hovel horridness. It was a bit nerve-wracking because we left the day after the news broke about the political situation in Honduras, but in the end we made it there and had a safe trip.

We started our trip in Antigua, the old capital of Guatemala. The entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage site, so the old cobblestone streets and faded pastel buildings are preserved. We stayed at Casa Cristina, near La Merced and the Arch at Santa Catalina. We had breakfast each morning on the rooftop garden, which had a great view of the yellow church and Volcan Agua.

Our room at Casa Cristina

La Merced

Arch of Santa Catalina

We visited the ruins of the Cathedral, La Merced, and Las Capuchinas; sampled tasty street food; climbed 333 steps to take in the view from Cerro de la Cruz; and even saw two beagles!

Ruins of the old Cathedral

Fuente de Pescados at La Merced

Cloisters at Las Capuchinas

Cerro de la Cruz

Antigua is surrounded by volcanoes...there are over thirty volcanoes in Guatemala! We climbed one of them, Volcan Pacaya, on a day trip from Antigua. After an early rise and a twisty-turny drive, we were greeted by children selling walking sticks and the services of horses at the trailhead. Dan is allergic to horses. The children were persistent, following our group for what seemed like half of the hike up...though finally they returned to the trailhead after one person in the group accepted the services of a horse. I was worried because we didn't bring Benadryl, and the hike was very steep without having to worry about horse-induced anaphylaxis! We saw views of the volcanoes Agua, Fuego, and Acatenengo on our way up the trail.

Three volcanoes

Eventually though the trail ended, and the crater of Pacaya was in view! It was quite exciting, until I realized we had to scale piles of lava rock the rest of the way.

Posing with the crater

It was a difficult climb up, but even harder getting down. We were stepping on loose piles of lava rock that would move and slip as we climbed...but we made it to the top and felt the heat of the lava beneath the rocks. And then!

Red hot flowing lava!

The thick slow-moving lava was a sight to behold, and the heat was so intense. Also a bit scary though, as the rock surface we were standing on was very porous and fragile, and the lava was right beneath us...people even roasted marshmallows in the heat vents! I ate a roasted marshmallow on a volcano! It was definitely a memorable hike.

From Antigua, we took another twisty-turny drive through the Western Highlands to Lake Atitlan, a huge crater lake ringed by several volcanoes. We barely made the last ferry across the lake...the boat had left the dock and actually came back to get us...phew! Dusk was falling when we arrived in Santiago Atitlan.

Volcan San Pedro

We went canoeing on the lake; visited the textile museum, cathedral, and Sunday market in the village; swam and lounged by the pool; feasted at a Fourth of July BBQ; rode bikes along the lake; hiked the hanging bridges at Reserva Natural Atitlan...and just relaxed and enjoyed the view from the mirador lookout of the hotel, one of my favorite spots during our stay there.

Dan canoeing

Angel, our stone cottage

Women washing in the morning

Sunday market in the village

Fourth of July BBQ pig

Mural at the village entrance

Crossing a hanging bridge

Volcan San Pedro looms over the lake

View from the mirador

The lake is beautiful, but it was time for our next adventure...onto the Verapaces...stay tuned!

Spring lambies redux

2009-04-26T15:56:00.000-07:00

Spring has sprung, and yet, the hovel still is not ready. The plan to move back in early April went out the window when it was discovered that the kitchen cabinets for almost all the appliances and both sinks were not the right size (ordered by a large hardware store chain that shall remain nameless). Frustration and anger ensued (and continues)...an oven and sink were exchanged...there was waiting...a replacement cabinet was ordered...more waiting. And so we wait...and hope that the replacement will be the right size. *Sigh*It would be nice to live in San Francisco again.

But there was some spring fun in the country this weekend. Dana's Cheviot sheep mamas had lambs, and she hosted an afternoon of sheep shearing/lamb viewing/sit 'n knit/honey tasting fun. Dan helped hold down one of the last year's lambs, now full-grown, to be sheared.

Time for a trim

The sheep looked a bit silly after the shearing, but a lot less raggedy.

Newly shorn

There was a lot of wool, from papa ram and his two sheep (who were last year's lambs). Arrow tried to eat a fallen piece of wool...maybe the lanolin was tasty?

Arrow checks out the wool

The newborn lamb -- born just that morning! -- was the star of the afternoon. People took turns holding her, while mama sheep bleated loudly at everyone.

Little lambykins with mama

Darcy Rose wanted to pet the mama sheep, but she was too fast for the humans. She did get to pet the newborn lamb though.

Gentle pats

After seeing the animals, we noshed on cupcakes and sampled delicious goat cheeses, truly local honey from a beehive recently discovered on the property, and some teas Dana's friend brought to share. It was a lovely spring afternoon in the country!

Progress

2009-03-17T15:35:00.000-07:00

Spring is near, and perhaps more cupcakes! (Actually, many-a-cupcake has been baked and consumed in 2009, but the lack of light was uninspiring.) I've been in a funk these past few months, but I was in San Francisco last week, dog/house-sitting for a friend, and noticed I was in a great mood. So I think the long commute has been bringing me down even more than I realize...but we *may* be close to moving back into the hovel. Still a lot of delays to contend with, and problems along the way, but it actually is starting to look like a house. The un-hovel, let's say.

Here's a preview of the progress so far...it's been over a year, after all...

Cheery yellow paint, partway

Green living room

Blue bathroom with wainscotting

More progress shots from the past year...not too much documentation though, because it turns out I am not a process person. I just want it to be done! When I first started knitting I remember reading about process knitters, those who enjoy the process of learning a new technique more than the finished piece. And I thought to myself, how odd! Going through the hovel remodel has reaffirmed that I am not a process person. The activities I enjoy doing, liking knitting and baking, I find meditative (when I am not messing up), but I definitely want to finish!

Happy winter

2008-12-31T12:38:00.000-08:00

I have been lazing through the winter break...reading, drinking tea and eating holiday treats, watching movies, catching up with friends and family, and sleeping...but how did the time go by so quickly?

Dan and I went up to Rocklin see his family on Christmas Eve, then returned to Chez Maman on Christmas Day. My sister made an origami dog for me...crafty, eh? The quilted espresso is from Dan's mother.

Cute samolian pooch on pink and green

My brother picked pomegranates from the tree in the backyard, decked out in a bicycle helmet and hospital scrubs...

Beware falling fruit

I was so lazy I did not even send out holiday cards this year...the hovel is my excuse. In my one bit of craftyness, I knit a chocolate brown Puff Daddy neck warmer for Joanne, with one skein of Biggy Print. I thought it turned out pretty well...hopefully the puff holds up...

Puff chocolate

And I got to catch up with some friends' babies and toddlers, who are growing up so fast! Dan and I met baby Georgia, daughter of Cheya and Rick...

Holding lil' baby Georgia

We also visited with Darcy Rose, who we had not seen since her 2nd birthday! Her family moved to new digs, and we walked to the park near their new abode, where Dan pushed her on the swings...

Higher! Faster!

After the walk, we shared some cookies Dan's sister had made for Christmas. Look at that smile!

Such a cutie

After Darcy finished her cooky, she was interested in the last one, which was for daddy. "Not yours," she told her mother. Also, "not Oliver's" (the dog). Ownership seems to be quite the thing...

Cooky time

She is talking a lot more now, toddling all about, and so, so fun to be around!

Putting magnets up on the fridge

My college friend Portia and her family visited from Texas, and we celebrated her son DJ's 3rd birthday with them! DJ is dairy-free, so for my first foray into dairy-free cupcakery I made dairy-free vanilla cupcakes with dairy-free chocolate ganache.

Blowing out the candles

DJ and his sister Veronica seemed to enjoy the birthday cupcakes...

DJ and Veronica, with birthday cuppies

After cake, there were presents to open, of course. DJ loves trucks, and received an impressive collection of toy trucks and cars. Dan and I gave him a vehicle-themed floor puzzle. But nothing could top the final gift, big boy underwear!

Big boy underwear, wow!

After presents, Dan had fun playing with the energetic birthday boy, although I am not sure the restaurant staff enjoyed it as much...

Gotcha!

Twas a relaxing break, with just a few more days of lazing for me...also, I finally took my mother's old Singer sewing machine to the shop for a long-overdue tune-up, so mayhaps there will be more crafting in 2009?

Happy new year!

Holiday cheer

2008-12-14T13:30:00.000-08:00

Tis the season for gingerbread cupcakes and peppermint bark! Joanne hosted a holiday open house last weekend, kicking off the holiday baking...I made gingerbread cupcakes with maple cream cheese frosting, which may be my new favorite frosting. I mixed chopped candied ginger into the batter, and the cupcakes were filled with cranberry apple butter and topped with a pomegranate seed (from the tree in the backyard at Chez Maman)...twas a nice combination of flavors.

Holiday cuppies

And of course, peppermint bark, an annual tradition...

Bark bark

The highlight of the party was holding baby Ryan. He really is adorable!

October fly-by

2008-11-15T22:04:00.000-08:00

Where does the time go? All of a sudden mid-November is upon us, and it is dark by 5 pm. Grr. But the solstice is next month, and the daylight hours will get longer again. Dan and I have been busy with the hovel, as usual. And I caught another bug, second time in less than a month, boo. But it has not been all bad, thankfully.

During Fleet Week, Dan had a work function at the Carnelian Room, and we saw the Blue Angels from the 52nd floor, a rare treat.

Red, white and blue

We saw the planes fly by the Transameria Pyramid and the Golden Gate Bridge, quite a sight. Dan and I also visited the newly-opened California Academy of Sciences, which we had been looking forward to for quite some time. The place was packed, so we just checked out the aquarium. We will return to see the rainforest, the planetarium, the living roof, so many things to see. The albino alligator seemed very much at home in the new digs...

Just relaxing

And earlier this month Dan and I went to our friends' impromptu wedding, just a handful of friends with colorful umbrellas, on a gray rainy afternoon at Baker Beach, witnessing two people's love and commitment for each other. I was so grateful and happy to witness such a beautiful celebration. I am hopeful that someday the people of this state will think so too. And I hope it will be soon!

C is for cooky

2008-10-06T21:12:00.000-07:00

Autumn is here! It even rained in the Bay Area over the weekend. Sadly, no creative output to speak of here at Chez Maman...too busy commuting, worrying (about the hovel and everything in general), and feeling tired of being tired...but trying to remember that I am an optimist!

And I find a home-baked cooky sometimes can lift one's spirits...so I made flourless almond chocolate chip cookies for book club this past weekend. I think this is the perfect cooky recipe that is both gluten-free and dairy-free...celiac and lactose intolerant book club members should be able to enjoy a sweet treat too! I usually use peanut butter, but have tried almond butter the past couple times, which also makes a tasty cooky. Dan made the almond butter this time with unsalted dry-roasted almonds in the food processor...fresh almond butter!

Almond chocolate chip cooky

The cookies have a nice chewy texture, chewier than the peanut butter version. Both are delicious. We discussed A Thousand Splendid Suns...reading the book made me so grateful for being a woman in America...despite all the things I worry about and disagree with...I am thankful.

Pink cupcake gig

2008-09-19T20:33:00.000-07:00

I had a cupcake gig over the weekend, almost a year to the day of my first one. Dan's coworker Josh requested pink cupcakes for a baby shower for his wife Marlena (my birthday twin!). I got organic strawberries at the farmer's market and tried two strawberry cupcake recipes. The first recipe used strawberry chunks, but I thought it tasted a bit muffin-y, so I tried a second recipe with strawberry puree. (I used twice the amount of puree.)

Strawberry cupcakes

The cupcakes were a slightly pink color with a faint berry flavor. The cake was dense, but not too dry. (When I sampled the chunk recipe cupcake the next day, it didn't seem so muffin-y...and the strawberry chunks were rather nice...will need to conduct more strawberry cupcake taste testing!) I also made two dozen vanilla cupcakes, also topped with pink strawberry frosting. The frosting was very sweet, but had a nice strawberry flavor.

Vanilla cupcakes with pink dots

I need a Cupcake Courier, but it is always out of stock. What's the story? These disposable trays will have to do for now...and the cupcakes made it to the shower safely.

Strawberry-to-go

We were greeted with mimosas on arrival...what a treat...Dan and I also were charmed by Victoria, big sister to the new baby, who arrived (early) during the week! Congratulations!

Tahoe birthday weekend

2008-09-12T20:46:00.000-07:00

Dan and I took Arrow to Lake Tahoe last weekend to celebrate Joanne's birthday and Sally's one year anniversary with the Lo family, and what a weekend it was! There were 13 humans and five dogs at the festivities...lots of fun! Joanne's husband Newt and dear friend Steven also rode the Tour de Tahoe, 72 miles around the lake...congratulations, boys!

And of course there were birthday cupcakes! Joanne likes mango, so I made this recipe using mango puree instead of papaya (yuck). The cupcakes were filled with mango buttercream filling, topped with cream cheese frosting and a dried mango circle (cut out with my trusty apple corer, which was used to make the holes for the filling too).

Can you see the birthday girl?

There were red beets in the weekly CSA box, so I decided to try a chocolate beet cupcake recipe also. The batter was a pretty deep red, but the baked cupcakes just looked like chocolate. They were topped with white chocolate buttercream and a chocolate disc.

Dimly lit cupcakes, with presents!

I think I overbaked both kinds of cupcakes, but they still were pretty tasty. (Frosting always helps.) It was a great weekend. We went to the lake, where the beagles stayed far away from the water. (Except for the ones who got thrown in.)

Sally, Arrow & Bonnie pose for Andy

Brody (golden retriever) and Dodger (lab/border collie) played in the water with the sporty humans while the beagles and the lazy humans lounged on the beach. (Yes, that would be me.)

Arrow cuddles with Bonnie

We also were introduced to a fun and addicting new game that Steven brought, Wits and Wagers. And the beagles napped in the sun every chance they got.

Napping on the deck

Thanks for such a fun weekend, everyone! Happy birthday Joanne!

Back to school

2008-08-29T20:34:00.000-07:00

The kiddos returned to school this week, and I am exhausted! The long commute from Chez Maman is tiring, but hopefully I will adjust in time. Slow progress continues on the hovel. Dan and I spent the last several weekends on house stuff...researching kitchen cabinets and appliances...making multiple visits to the plumbing fixture showroom....it has been frustrating, exciting, exhausting...and it continues...

We did squeeze in some fun with the house craziness earlier this month. We attended my old friend Max's wedding...he and his longtime sweetie Nancy had a picnic potluck wedding at Tilden Park on a gorgeous summer day. I made mojito cupcakes for the occasion.

Wedding cupcakery

It was a festive wedding....cheery yellow parasols protected from the sun, and the guests worked together to find the missing rings....with clues from our wedding invitations. Well, many of the guests did. I mostly ate pie and forgot to take pictures. Dan was fascinated by one of the locks, which was like a puzzle, involving many keys (that had to be found) and some trick locks. In the end the rings were unlocked and the bride and groom exchanged vows. Hooray!

After the wedding , we went down the road to celebrate Darcy Rose's second birthday, riding the steam trains!

Riding the train with Darcy Rose

Darcy loves riding the train, especially going through the tunnel. There were also presents to open, of course.

Opening presents with grandma

All in all, a nice respite from the house craziness, and a great day at Tilden Park!

Berry day

2008-07-29T16:56:00.000-07:00

I celebrated another year with a belated berry picking day at Phipps Farm in Pescadero. Unfortunately, it was a bit late in the season and very few ollalieberries remained. But it was a beautiful day, and lovely to see everyone...especially the kiddos!

Darcy eats a berry from Diana

Darcy Rose loves berries and toddled through the fields picking and eating with enthusiasm. Unlike me she was deterred neither by tartness nor thorns, and I was told she even consumed a leaf still attached to one berry. Watching her made me very, very happy. I also got to meet Zoe for the first time...she reminds me of a muppet, so so cute!

Vivian and Zoe

Her big sister Chloe is pretty cute too.

Matching pink hat and hoodie

After searching for berries, we had pie. I made strawberry pie with gluten-free animal cracker crust. And my first double-crust pie, blueberry pie from Cooks Illustrated, with my favorite vodka pie crust. I forgot to photograph the pies. They were quite yummy though.

Darcy samples the blueberry pie

And birthday loot! Joanne and Newt got me a cupcake jersey. Cupcakes! Maybe I'll actually get on my bike with such cute, inspiring attire.

Posing with cupcakes and Bonnie beagle

Thank you everyone for such a fun day!

Cancro cupcakes

2008-07-25T10:24:00.000-07:00

Fellow crab Diana celebrated her birthday this week, so it was cupcake time! Peach season calls for peach cupcakes...plus, the birthday girl loves cheese cream frosting.

Cream cheesy peachiness

I had a bit of difficulty with the baking...I tested for doneness with a toothpick and all seemed well, so I let them cool. But when I cut into a cupcake after cooling, the batter inside was raw...ewww! Oops. I suspect the peaches I used were too big...it is peach season, after all...and maybe the pieces I cut were too big as well. So the batter around the peaches was not baked through. I put the cupcakes back in the oven, which resulted in overly brown tops. Luckily the cupcakes still tasted pretty good...cream cheese frosting always helps!

Since the celiac attendees of the birthday festivities cannot partake in gluten, I made flourless chocolate cupcakes as well. One of my (many) favorite ice cream flavors at the neighborhood ice cream spot is Mexican chocolate, which has a delicious hint of cinnamon...mmm! So I used cinnamon in the cupcakes (replacing the ancho chili powder), and the result was quite nice.

Gluten-free chocolate cinnamon cuppies

The cupcakes sink a bit since they are flourless. All the better to fill with chocolate sour cream frosting!

Cooky time

2008-07-22T16:08:00.000-07:00

When my friend Diana told me about the New York Times chocolate chip cookie recipe, of course I had to try it. It was hard waiting for the dough to rest, but 24 hours later...

24 hour cooky

The warm cookie was quite nice, though a wee bit too sweet. I used a combination of 60% and 72% chocolate discs...next time I will try all 72%. Also, instead of the 1 1/4 lb chocolate called for in the original recipe, I used 15 oz chocolate and 5 oz chopped pecans...I like a nutty cooky and thought the nuts would help cut the sweetness. (While the cookies were in the oven, I read about Orangette making the cookies...serendipitous, yes?)

Part of the inspiration to make this cooky was to see Darcy Rose eating one!

Darcy tests the cooky

I was hoping the cooky would be the size of her head, but it wasn't quite that big. It still made my day watching her bite into it...and after she put it down, she picked it back up and sneaked a few more bites. So cute! The next day I made the 36 hour cooky with the rest of the dough, which also was yummy, but sweet.

Since I was still on a chocolate fix, I made chocolate cherry granola over the weekend as well. Little bits of 72% bittersweet chocolate flecked throughout. Yum.

Chocolate for breakfast

Yucatan summer redux: Journey's end (part 4)

2008-07-06T12:18:00.000-07:00

From the islands, to Merida and Celestun, then the Ruta Puuc, Dan and I were nearing the end of our two-week Yucatan summer adventure...but with great reluctance! On our way to Vallodolid, we stopped for a tour of the cenotes of Cuzuma...a horse-and-buggy took us along the tracks on a former henequen plantation to three picturesque underwater sinkholes, perfect for swimming.

Hard-working pony stops for a rest

If another buggy approached from the opposite direction, we stopped and the drivers lifted the buggy off the tracks to allow the other to pass...cute the first time, but not-so-fun after it started raining. The cenotes were lovely. Lots of ceiba tree roots hang down into the cool, clear waters.

Looking down into Cenote Chansinic'che

Also lots of stalactites...beautiful limestone formations hanging down...

Big stalactites above us

In Valladolid we visted the market and a few churches. A small anteroom next to the main sanctuary of San Gervasio Cathedral was filled with tombstones.

Tombstones inside the church

I enjoyed exploring the city, but it was very hot and humid.

Sweaty in the town square

We cooled off with a swim at Cenote Dzitnup, the biggest one I have seen so far. Its huge stalactite formations were spectacular, but unfortunately my camera could not capture the underground beauty in the darkness. Valladolid is home to many zapaterias, where you can see leather sandals being made. I had to get new shoes, of course.

Shoemakers at work

We also had the yummiest agua frescas in a food court by our hotel in Valladolid. We had been drinking agua frescas nearly everyday during our trip, most places offered jamaica (hibiscus) and limonada (lime); I also had a tasty melon agua fresca on Holbox. But these were the best. Dan had pitaya, or dragonfruit. It is not my favorite fruit, but it was so delicious and refreshing!

Chunks of pitaya and seeds

I had pina, or pineapple. Yum!

Big pina agua fresca

After lunch I managed to lose my prescription glasses at one of the shops we stopped in...we were literally about to drive out of town when I realized this. We then discovered the shops close after lunch and do not re-open until 5 pm...siesta time...so we waited...and I got to practice my Spanish as we went from shop to shop..."Estoy buscando mis lentes. Estan aqui?" But in the end we found them, hooray! Then we were off to Coba, to climb the Nohoch Mul pyramid. We went early in the morning, but the ruins were very crowded...and not so well preserved...probably my least favorite ruins in all of Yucatan. But we did see crocodiles in Laguna Coba and other wildlife.

Caterpillar parade on a trail

After Coba we drove up the coast and stopped for a swim in Akumal Bay to look for sea turtles. We saw three! First a medium one, then a wee little one eating turtle grass, which lead us to a big sea turtle. The big one swam fast. The next day we snorkeled in the coral reef off the shore of Puerto Morelos, so beautiful. We saw so many pretty fish and corals, including a huge brain coral....also, queen conches, an eagle ray, sea cucumber, and more...but no sea turtles. So Dan and I went back to Akumal Bay, where we saw two more turtles! I love sea turtles...swimming with them and just watching them swim makes me so happy. We also saw a family of reef squid, very cute with their big eyes peering intently...and a huge long barracuda! As I remember all that we saw, I wish we had an underwater camera to capture the beauty of the sea.

Pelican preening in Puerto Morelos

The Yucatan Peninsula is a wonderful and beautiful place. We enjoyed our journey...and I hope to return again someday.

Yucatan summer redux: Mostly Mayan (part 3)

2008-07-05T14:19:00.000-07:00

After the islands and going west across the peninsula, Dan and I made our way back east along the Ruta Puuc, the hilly region of the Yucatan. I saw several roadrunners scurry across the road! We stayed at a delightful B&B in Santa Elena, a small village with a big church.

Fountain in the village square

From there we visited Uxmal, probably my favorite of all the Mayan ruins we have seen. The first structure upon entering the site is the Pyramid of the Magician. It is massive, and one of the few known Mayan pyramids with a rounded base.

Can you see Dan?

Uxmal features impressive feats of architecture. The Governor's Palace is big and long, considered one of the greatest of Mayan buildings.

The Governor's Palace

The Dovecote is another interesting structure...perhaps used as a lookout?

View of the Dovecote from the Grand Pyramid

There are many intricate carvings on all the structures throughout the site...

Parrot carvings atop the Grand Pyramid

The House of the Turtles

Serpent carving at the Nunnery

We also saw lots of iguanas and birds, including mot-mots! Their turquoise color and long tail are quite spectacular, and we spotted the pretty birds at all of the Ruta Puuc sites. At Kabah we saw the Codz Poop, a structure composed of hundreds upon hundreds of masks of Chac, the rain god.

Obsessed with Chac

It was amazing and also a bit frightening. The ancient Maya definitely must have been very concerned about water in this region.

A Chac close-up, with broken nose

Next stop was Sayil, where the Palace features carvings of the inverted diving god, which we also saw at Tulum and Coba.

Carol and Dan at el Palacio

The diving god, flanked by serpents

We also spotted pretty big-leafed plants at Sayil. They look like they've been painted pink and white.

Dan's hand for size comparison

The Arch of Labna is very beautiful, with intricate carvings on both sides.

Traditional palapa hut carvings on one side

At Labna we also walked along the sacbe, raised white road believed to connect all the way to Uxmal at one time. And we saw the impressive el Mirador, believed to be a lookout structure. It rises out above a high hill of stones.

High lookout

Hundreds of butterflies fluttered on the road from Sayil to Labna, so beautiful! We also visited the Loltun caves, believed to be the largest cave system in the Yucatan. It was amazing, but alas I did not bring the camera underground.

Along the way we stopped in many small villages, visiting the church of each village square. Probably the most famous is el Convento de San Miguel Arcangel in Mani, believed to be the site where Fray Diego de Landa burned the Mayan codices, their important written works. The church has an attached capilla abierta, open chapel where the Mayan worshipped, similar to the one we saw at Dzibichaltun.

The church at Mani

There was so much to see and do in the Ruta Puuc region; Dan and I really enjoyed visiting the area. Next time, the conclusion of our summer Yucatan adventure!

Yucatan summer redux: Westward ho (part 2)

2008-07-04T10:58:00.000-07:00

After a week of island relaxation, Dan and I headed inland via bus to Merida, the capital of Yucatan state. We stayed at Luz en Yucatan, which turned out to be one of our favorite spots the entire trip. Lounging in the hammock was a top priority.

Note the second hammock in the room

Since my hat flew off during a ferry ride, we hit the market in search of a jipijapa, Panama hat. Jipis are made in Becal, in Campeche state...in caves, I was told, where the temperature and humidity are just right for weaving and shaping the palm fronds. Above ground, the hats hold their shape. To demonstrate, the shopkeeper rolled up the hat, which bounced back when unfolded...I was sold.

Posing with jaunty new hat

Merida is a bustling city, and great for walking...though the heat, humidity and afternoon rain showers of summer did slow us down a bit. We walked along Paseo de Montejo, admiring the grand old mansions and interesting art sculptures that line the parkway. We also visited MACAY, the Museum of Contemporary Art of the Yucatan, and the Anthropology Museum, which houses a large collection of Mayan artifacts. And we went to see the Mayan ruins at Dzibitalchun, north of Merida. During the spring and autumn equinoxes, the sun lines up perfectly in the window of the Temple of the Seven Dolls, incredible! But we were there during the summer equinox...ah well...we did go swimming in Cenote Xlacah, very refreshing!

Path to Temple of the Seven Dolls

We were lucky to be in the city on a Saturday night, when there are outdoor performances, food vendors, lots of people out strolling...very fun and lively atmosphere. On Sunday morning there were more festivities, and a bicycle ride through the city too. Dan and I enjoyed Merida very much.

Cathedral lit up at night

From Merida we continued further west, to the coastal fishing village of Celestun. Getting the rental car was a bit of nightmare, but finally we were on our way. I did not like the hotel we checked into though, and my crabbiness was increasing. We found a spot for dinner on the beach just as soon as it began to rain...there would be no pretty sunsets for us! Then, thunder and lightning too...lots of it...and we saw a dog sitting in a boat, looking quite nervous.

Poor pooch

The storm went on all night, and the electricity flashed on and off constantly...it was rather scary. Finally the electricity was out for good, so no air-conditioning in the room. Phooey. So why did we come to Celestun anyway?

Pink in the distance

Flamingos, of course! At first, they were like a pink mirage in the distance, but as the boat got closer, I realized we had finally found them. Our boat caption was very good and did not get too close to the flamingos, so as not to disturb them. (Apparently many tour boats get very close to scare the flamingos into flight, for photographs, but it is very detrimental to the flamingos well-being.) But we did get to see one flamingo flap and fly just a bit, from a distance!

Black striped wings

The not-so-hot photos do not show the full degree of their pinkness. And they have such long, long necks and odd curved bills. The waters of the estuary are shallow, and the flamingos feed for most of the day. It was quite wonderful to see them....there were hundreds...Dan thinks maybe even a thousand flamingos.

Super-long neck

We also saw egrets, herons, so many other birds, and fishermen working on the day's catch. We went through a mangrove forest and stopped at an ojo de agua, where the freshwater spring bubbles up and mixes with the salt water of the estuary. Dan and I went for a swim in the cool water.

Bubbling ojo de agua

The petrified forest was the last stop of the tour. Eerie trunk remains of trees killed by the salty waters of the estuary.

Tree graveyard

So Celestun wasn't too bad in the end, but I would recommend taking a day trip from Merida. That is what we should have done! Dan and I left town, taking the old hacienda route that passes through villages and hacienda ruins, the remains of old henequen plantations.

Hacienda Santa Rosa

Next stop, Uxmal and the Ruta Puuc...more adventures in Yucatan to come!

Yucatan summer redux: The islands (part 1)

2008-07-03T14:57:00.000-07:00

Dan and I returned to the Yucatan Peninsula in June, since we loved it so much back in February. I wanted to swim with the whale sharks, and this time we decided to stay for two weeks to explore more of the region. Our trip begin on Isla Mujeres, where we spotted a beagle during dinner on our first night!

Beagle wants to eat din-din too

I thought it was a good omen. We later met his people, and learned his name is Capuchino. A beagle in Yucatan!

Our three days on Isla Mujeres were lovely. We went snorkeling in a couple spots along El Farolito, biked the length of the island to Punta Sur, and visited the tortugranja, turtle hatchery. We also looked for conch shells on the beach and swam in Piscina del Rey, a coral-formed pool on the Carribean sea.

Piscina del Rey, or King's Pool

There was so much wildlife to see, even in this little spot. Fish in the water, chitins along the rocks, sea urchins, baby octupi, and a spiny lobster too.

We also ate lots of delicious food each day. But there was not enough time to try all the restaurants! We were reluctant to leave Isla Mujeres, but it was time for the next island, Isla Holbox. The turquoise sea and blue sky on the ferry ride back to Cancun were so beautiful.

Clouds over the Carribean

From Cancun we took a bus to Chiquila, and from there another ferry to Isla Holbox. And that evening we saw another beagle! Two beagles in Yucatan!

Tux sleeping at Moguel store

I couldn't believe my luck. The next morning was the whale shark tour. We saw flying fish skipping along the surface of the water, dolphins jumping, a sea turtle coming up for air, and finally, the whale sharks.

Spots approach the boat

The not-so-hot photos do not convey their massive size...the largest species of fish on earth! But they are filter feeders, and very gentle. We saw a smaller juvenile and a larger adult...maybe 15 feet long?

Filter feeding mouth

Dan and I swam with the whale shark twice, and it really was an incredible experience observing such an immense animal up-close. Afterwards, on the way back to Holbox we saw a huge manta ray.

Super-wide fin-span

We also did a tour of a couple of the small islands around Holbox, in hopes of seeing the flamingos on Isla Pajaros. But it turns out they have not been seen since spring, and probably moved to a new spot, which was was disappointing. But the trip included a stop on Punta Mosquito, where we collected shells and saw tern egg nests on the beach.

Three wee little eggs

Mama tern tried to lead us away from the nest. Lots of pelicans too. Back on the boat, the sky filled with clouds, and the water was a wonderful shade of green...different from the Carribean, but still beautiful.

Cumulonimbus clouds signal rain

On Holbox we also biked along the beach, first going east, then west. It is very quiet and serene on the island...not many people, lots of sea birds, and so many shells along the shore.

Looking east

The waves are gentle, and the waters so shallow. The ridges of sand just seem to go on and on. I swam in the water every day...several times each day...

Sand ripples

Oh, but the bugs on the island! The mosquitos, especially after the rains. And sand flies and no-see-ums too...and all of them got me. I used five different kinds of insect repellent: Avon Skin-So-Soft, Cactus Juice, citronella, picaradin, and finally DEET. But I still got over 100 bites during our stay. No exaggeration. So I was not too disappointed when we left Holbox. The sunsets though, are incredible. The best one was on our last night on the island.

Sunset, last night on Holbox

But we were ready for our next destination. Stay tuned!

Anniversary cupcakes

2008-05-25T12:45:00.000-07:00

Joanne and Newt celebrated their one year anniversary this month, so I thought anniversary cupcakes were in order. I was inspired by this matcha and chocolate cake with crushed pistachios, so here is my cupcake version...

Matcha cupcakes with chocolate glaze

The matcha cuppies were filled with pistachio cream...a sort of green color scheme...

Inside the cupcake

I followed Santos' matcha cupcake recipe, using a combination of all-purpose flour, pastry flour, and 2 t baking powder, since I did not have self-rising flour. After the cupcakes cooled, I made holes with an apple corer and filled them with pistachio cream. Then they were topped with a dollop of chocolate glaze and a sprinkling of chopped toasted pistachios. The glaze is basically my favorite chocolate ganache, made without chopping the chocolate first due to laziness. Here are the recipes...

...Pistachio cream...
1/3 c raw pistachios
1/3 c powdered sugar
1 - 2 T water
2/3 c heavy cream

Toast pistachios at 300 F until fragrant, about 5 minutes.
Grind pistachios in food processor, then add powdered sugar.
Add 1 T water until a paste forms, adding more if necessary.
Whip cream with electric mixer until peaks form, then fold in pistachio paste.

...Chocolate glaze...
8 oz semisweet chocolate (I use Ghiradelli)
1/2 c heavy cream
1 T vanilla sugar
1 T honey
2 T unsalted butter

Melt chocolate over double-boiler with sugar and honey.
Slowly pour cream into mixture, whisking until fully incorporated.
Add 1 T butter at a time, whisking until chocolate glaze is thick and spreadable.

Weekend baking

2008-05-15T13:02:00.000-07:00

I made chocolate cupcakes with cream cheese frosting for Jeff and Drew's housewarming BBQ on Saturday. The cupcakes came out with crackly tops, not sure why...electric oven? Still tasty though. So why are chocolate cake and cream cheese frosting not paired together more often?

Chocolate sprinkles

I also wanted to make coconut cream pie for Mother's Day, but the crust shrank when baked blind...even with baking weights! Maybe I should have frozen it first? There were even gaping holes in the shrinkage...all very disheartening. Vodka pie crust, how could you disappoint me? I abandoned the project...Mission Pie to the rescue! But the next day Dan suggested filling the sad little crust with strawberries. Enough time had passed where I was not so upset at the failure, and I agreed. I halved the usual recipe since the crust had shrank...and the sauce didn't thicken...maybe not enough corn starch? But despite the soupy sauce, the pie was still tasty. My mother approved.

Strawberry soup pie

Not the best weekend baking, but not too bad in the end. The heat wave is preventing any kind of baking right now...or cooking...or much of anything, really. So lethargic...

Spring lambies

2008-04-29T15:15:00.000-07:00

I made three kinds of cupcakes for the weekend...and forgot to photograph all of them! For my first foray into gluten-free baking I made flourless chocolate cupcakes, with cinnamon instead of ancho chili powder, sans whipped cream... and they were delicious. Also tried vanilla cupcakes made with gluten-free flour, topped with strawberry meringue buttercream...which were not bad. I had leftover frosting and couldn't decide if it would be better with chocolate or vanilla cake...so I made marble cupcakes. I took them to a sit 'n knit hosted by Dana, who has lambies!

Mama sheep and lambies eating lettuce

As soon as we entered the pen, they ran all about...very fast too. The lambies were hard to catch, but Dan was determined.

Dan caught a lamby

They were soooo soft! Very, very cute, but skittish. And then! Four beagles at the sit 'n knit! Dana's Swiss Mountain dogs Geiger and Sen were also present. When one of them got within sight of the beagle area, the beagles howled and barked maniacally. The pack mentality, protecting their territory, I guess...but made it hard to concentrate on the knitting, and rather headache-inducing too. After all the howling, Sally decided to get comfy in Arrow's bed.

Peaceful beagle (for now)

A day in the life

2008-04-25T15:36:00.000-07:00

of a beagle...

Morning nap in the sun

Stretch out in the shade for a bit

Time to cool off

Birthday pie

2008-04-06T16:41:00.000-07:00

Dan celebrated his birthday this week...so I made birthday pie.

Not much pie left

I usually make pecan pie for Thanksgiving, but why wait? Pie should be eaten year-round. The filling is butter pecan pie, but with maple syrup and California wildflower honey instead of corn syrup. The crust is foolproof pie dough from Cooks Illustrated, via Smitten Kitchen. Also known as vodka pie crust...well, I call it that, anyway...and it is my new favorite pie crust. The dough comes together so easily because of the vodka...which evaporates in the oven...and the resulting crust is flaky and tender. Yum.

Under the weather

2008-04-01T13:27:00.000-07:00

I am sick with the flu. Boo. Guess the flu shot got trumped by so many children passing through the science room...their germs inter-mixing...yuck! It has been a week now, so hopefully the worst has passed.

So I have been home napping...sleeping a lot. And watching the beagle nap...in the sun...a lot.

Lucky dog

Napping in the sun is rather nice. But the fever and aches, horrible. But all is not bad. Dan and I joined a new CSA, since Terra Firma Farms does not deliver south of the city. Although we miss their fruit...especially the bumper crop of delicious Satsumas this past winter...we are enjoying the pretty produce from Two Small Farms while we are at Chez Maman.

Colorful carrots

The carrots and celery were enjoyed with hummus, made by Dan. I especially liked the purple carrots. This week we also tried spigariello and agretti, green vegetables of Italy. Tasty! And I am hoping for strawberries...perhaps, soon? Hope so.

Ho hum

2008-03-27T14:27:00.000-07:00

Been busy at school and still adjusting to the looong commute...hence, zero crafting at Chez Arrow. One would think I could knit or read on the train...but then one would be wrong...mostly I rest my eyes...just call me lazy!

Did bake apricot-pistachio oat bars last week...

Chock-full of coconut and dates too

My mother found the recipe....a bit too sweet, I thought...next time I might try making them with cream instead of condensed milk.

Arrow has been reading about stuff white people like in blogland...

Dogs all the way at #53?!

Yucatan adventures

2008-02-24T10:41:00.000-08:00

After a week of relaxing on the beach, visiting Mayan ruins and looking for tropical wildlife in the Yucatan Peninsula, Dan and I reluctantly returned to the rainy Bay Area. Dan had a work meeting in Cancun, so I joined him afterwards for a little vacation...wished we could have stayed longer!

I met up with Dan in Isla Mujeres, a small island north of Cancun. We stayed at an oceanside apartment, listening to the ocean waves and relaxing in a hammock on the patio.

Pretty pool of water by the ocean

From Isla Mujeres we took a day trip to Isla Contoy, a national park and bird sanctuary. We snorkeled in the warm waters, looking at different corals, tropical fish and a giant manta ray. Also saw many, many magnificent frigate birds and spotted a few sunning reptiles along the paths. We enjoyed delicious grilled fish under a palapa with a huge community of hermit crabs nipping at our toes.

The slow boat we took is on the right

After a couple of days of island relaxation, we rented a car from Cancun and drove inland to the town of Valladolid. Each morning we enjoyed breakfast in the pretty courtyard of El Meson del Marques, which is right on the town plaza, where we strolled while listening to a band perform on Sunday evening, and sampled delectable treats from various street vendors. From Valladolid, we visited the Mayan ruins at Chichen Itza.

El Castillo, the main pyramid

Shadows forming a serpent appear along the steps during the equinox! But people are not allowed to climb the pyramid anymore. The ruins were very impressive, and Dan loved examining the many intricate limestone carvings.

The Platform of Skulls

But by midday it was very crowded and hot, and not so fun. We drove to the colonial town of Izamal, where the Spanish built one of the first monasteries in the New World...slowing down as we passed through small villages by the topes, speed bumps along the roads throughout Mexico.

Santuario de la Virgen de Izamal

Stones from Mayan pyramids were used to build the monastery in 1533, which is like a fortress. The next day we visited Ek Balam, recently discovered ruins that are still being excavated.

View from halfway up the Acropolis

Acropolis, the main pyramid, can be climbed, and is higher than El Castillo at Chichen Itza.

Resting on the steps

Dan was enthralled by the many stucco carvings halfway up the Acropolis, amazingly preserved. (Or restored?) Jaguar teeth surround the carvings...Ek Balam means black jaguar in Mayan...

Intricate carvings topped by human figures

We also noticed many of the doorways had the same trapezoidal arch shape at all the ruins we visited.

Trapezoidal doorway

To cool off from the midday heat we went for a dip at Cenote Samula. The Yucatan Peninsula has few surface lakes or rivers, but many cenotes, underground freshwater sinkholes exposed when the limestone surface falls through. Dan was slightly apprehensive as we descended the dark, slippery steps...but the freshwater pool was lovely and refreshing.

Tree roots extend down from the opening

The tree roots hanging down from the surface above were so long! We also saw stalactite formations and fish swimming in the water.

From Valladolid we drove back to the coast, and stayed in a bungalow on the beach in Tulum.

Sunset from the porch

We walked on the beach, snorkeled in Bahia de San Francisco, swam in Gran Cenote, relaxed in the hammock, and visited the ruins at Tulum...the only Mayan ruins built on the coastline....a spectacular setting...

Surrounded by three walls and the ocean

From Tulum we also visited Sian Ka'an, a biosphere reserve encompassing 1.3 million acres of tropical forests, mangroves, lagoons, and coastline. We went swimming, walked through the mangroves, saw beautiful beetles, a couple of small crocodiles, reddish egrets and many other birds flying to San Miguel Island as the sun set.

Sunset over Boca Paila Lagoon

On our last day on the way to the airport we stopped in Puerto Morelos to buy hammocks...and have one last look at the beautiful beach. It was a wonderful vacation...I was so sad to leave, and hope to return someday soon!

Beautiful blue-green waters

Moving in the year of the mouse

2008-02-08T11:24:00.000-08:00

Chez Arrow moved to Chez Maman over the weekend...Dan, Arrow and I are staying at my parents' place...construction on the hovel should be starting soon...and hopefully will go smoothly, so we can return to a spiffed-up-no-longer-hovel in the fall! (Hoping.)

The commute is long, but the change of scenery has been nice so far, and my mother enjoys taking Arrow for walks. Lucky beagle!

Sunning at Chez Maman

Happy lunar year of the mouse!

Winter crafties

2008-01-11T10:59:00.000-08:00

I accomplished very little crafting during the winter break...just a few small things. A couple of bibs for Lilly:

Baby bibs -- front

They are reversible and have a layer of nylon between the fabrics for waterproof-ness.

Baby bibs -- back

I also finished my sister's so-called Sophie bag. She knit most of the bag while at school, and she gave it to me to finish last time she was home. But I somehow messed up the handles...they did not line up correctly. So I removed them and cut out handles instead, and felted it a couple of times.

Sophie bag with flower pin

Perhaps there will be more crafty productivity in the new year...

Relaxing with wonder bread

2008-01-03T14:57:00.000-08:00

Dan and I took Arrow on a little jaunt to a lovely spot in Boony Doon after Christmas. We canoed in Elkhorn Slough and saw lots of wildlife...different sea birds, including pelicans, a few sea otters, and harbor seals who followed our canoe.

Hi there

The weather was drizzly and my foot was hurting, so we mostly relaxed...but we did walk along the Santa Cruz coastline one afternoon.

Cormorants on the bluff

And I discovered Hart's Fabric, which I heart. So many pretty fabrics, it was difficult to choose.

Fabric stash

During the break I also discovered the wonder that is no knead bread. Much as been blogged about this bread, so I had high hopes...and yet, I was not disappointed. I made the almost no knead bread from Cooks Illustrated.

I made this!

It was delicious...oh, the crust! Mmm...I will be making this bread many more times. Might just start one tonight, I think.

Happy new year!

Holiday cupcakery

2007-12-28T10:59:00.000-08:00

During the holiday break I tried a couple of recipes from Cupcakes! I made gingerbread cupcakes for a Christmas party, topped with honey cream cheese frosting and a few pomegranate seeds.

Gingerbread cuppies in the setting sun

The recipe calls for filling them with lemon curd, but I used apple butter from the farmers' market instead.

Inside the cupcake

Dan and I did not stay too late at the party, so not sure how everyone liked the flavor combination...hopefully the cupcakes were enjoyed by all. The weekend before Christmas I made reindeer snacks at Joanne's, for Wii-playing, Elf viewing, gift-exchanging, and general merriment.

Dimly-lit reindeer snacks

The chocolate sour cream cupcakes were topped with white chocolate buttercream and crushed peppermint candies. The menfolk helped smash the candies. I couldn't believe the grocery store ran out of candy canes!

I made the placemats from InStitches as part of Joanne's gift, though I used regular heavy interfacing instead of the dreaded Timtex.

Lavender & brown color pairing

The dotty edge fabric was also the lining of her Swing Bag, a gift last Christmas!

Winter white

2007-12-10T15:08:00.000-08:00

No snow in San Francisco...in fact, there has been very little rain so far...eeks! But last week I got infected by a cool weather bug, so I had to skip a couple of holiday parties that I had been looking forward to...phooey! However, during my recuperation I did some knitting...hooray!

Winter white scarf

Pattern: Seed stitch, I think I cast on 9 stitches
Yarn: Rowan Biggy Print, in a discontinued colorway, 3 skeins
Needles: US 19 bamboo straights

I got four skeins of this lovely white and silvery gray yarn, sadly discontinued, on sale a couple years ago. The wooly scarf is super warm, and I like the white and gray colors with my cheery red wool coat. But now I only have one skein left...will it be enough for a hat? Hmm...I wonder...

Peanut butter cuppies

2007-11-19T11:39:00.000-08:00

Over the weekend my friend Jeff and his honey Drew celebrated their birthdays with a joint birthday bowling extravaganza, which I thought was the perfect opportunity to try this peanut butter cupcake recipe. The cupcakes turned out quite moist with a nice peanut buttery flavor, kind of like a peanut butter cookie, but in cupcake form...

Peanut butter cups

Even though the recipe recommends using Skippy peanut butter, I asked Dan to make his signature homemade peanut butter, grinding organic peanuts in the food processor with a bit of salt. I also swirled some of the peanut butter into chocolate ganache for the frosting, and topped with some chopped peanuts. The cupcakes were a hit with the bowlers at the party, except one. Birthday boy Drew likes peanut butter, and he likes chocolate, but not together! How can that be?? I still don't understand. But I ate his cupcake for him. Next year I must remember, just chocolate for his birthday...

Dog-filled weekend

2007-10-30T15:07:00.000-07:00

On Saturday Dan and I drove up to Santa Rosa to see my favorite cartoonist at the Schulz Museum, with Arrow in tow. She wasn't allowed in the museum (phooey), but we met up with Sally outside the Warm Puppy Cafe.

Beagle meet-up

Sally sniffed Snoopy's chocolate chip cookies.

Mmm...can I have one?

The beagles also met a bassett hound!

Hello hound friend

I was pretty excited. Then on Sunday Arrow went to Sally's house for a doggie Halloween party. Arrow went as Snoopy, same costume as last Halloween. Sally was the queen bee-gle, sitting in her own little chair too!

Who invited all these dogs over?

Brody the golden retriever puppy was a moose, and Si the samoyed went as himself.

Are you a dog? Or a moose?

Dodger the black lab/border collie puppy was a spider, but he was too fast for my camera. He tried to chew his own tentacles, which was hilarious for the humans to watch. Sally changed into her Snoopy costume later in the evening, so there were two beagles-as-beagles. The humans enjoyed many deep-fried delectables at the party, including oysters, zucchini, and sweet potato fries. I made orange-ginger doughnuts and strawberry pie.

Piles of strawberries

Dan and I picked the strawberries last weekend at Terra Firma Farms' annual Farm Day, and making strawberry pie has become a sort of annual tradition...a bittersweet end to the strawberry season. This year I made a chocolate cookie crust...it was very tasty with freshly whipped cream.

It was a weekend full of doggie fun!

Tri for cupcakes

2007-10-16T16:03:00.000-07:00

I took a road trip to Tahoe over the weekend, so cupcakes were in order! I made banana cupcakes filled with salted caramel, topped with chocolate ganache and toasted coconut.

Cupcakes for the road

I thought it was a nice combination of flavors, and they were well-received. Here is a just-frosted cupcake in the morning light...

Solo shot, ready to eat

And a peek at the caramel inside...

Gooey filling

Also, earlier this month I participated in my second triathlon event, Tri Girl Tri...and I finished! I was rather nervous about doing it, since I haven't been working out consistently since school started (swam once and just a short bike ride). Here I am crossing the bridge near the end of the bike course...

Wannabe triathlete

Fall color

2007-09-28T16:20:00.000-07:00

School is keeping me busy, and I am (hopefully) getting over a cold. Some fall color in the sky on a recent weekday morning at Chez Arrow...

Sunrise over Bernal Hill

It's autumn!

Cupcake gig

2007-09-18T10:57:00.000-07:00

This weekend I made cupcakes for a children's birthday party. The party had a carnival theme, so there were polka dots all over. (The decorations were beautiful, but I foolishly forgot to photograph the main room.) The client wanted neutral colored frosting with colored dots to match the party colors.

Dotty cupcake table

I made 50 cupcakes and 50 mini-cupcakes, plus a bunch extra of each. The color-coded flavors were chocolate cupcakes with white chocolate buttercream, coconut cupcakes with cream cheese frosting, lemon cupcakes with Meyer lemon buttercream, and vanilla cupcakes with vanilla buttercream.

Flavor signage

Transport went smoothly, thankfully...even though I have made cupcakes for two weddings, I still am a bit nervous until the cupcakes have arrived safely at their site.

Cupcakes ready to go

I have not heard back from the client yet, but I hope the cupcakes were enjoyed by the partygoers!

Arrow's new friend

2007-09-11T20:28:00.000-07:00

Joanne's sister Jenny adopted a beagle...meet Sally!

Arrow blinks for the picture

The beagles joined some knitting ladies at Opera in the Park this weekend. It was a lovely afternoon...knitting, listening to arias while noshing and petting two beagles! Sally is smaller than Arrow, and she has cute freckles on her paws. The beagles were very busy...

Sally naps

They took turns napping...

Arrow naps while Sally looks on

I made apple cardamom cupcakes for the occasion, with apples from a fellow teacher's apple tree.

Apple cupcakes for a picnic

The cardamom seeds I ground up in the mortar and pestle were so fragrant that I decided to use only half the amount, and I think the resulting cupcakes were spiced just right. I filled them with caramel and used my favorite cream cheese in the frosting...a tasty combination...Sally seemed to think so!

Can I have a bite?

Birthday clutch

2007-09-09T11:03:00.000-07:00

It's been over a year since my last finished knit...too long! So for Joanne's birthday, I made her the felted clutch from One Skein.

Pattern model next to actual bag

Pattern: The clutch you'll never give up from One Skein
Yarn: Lamb's Pride Bulky, wild violet colorway, almost 1 skein
Needles: US 15 bamboo circulars (16")

The bag didn't turn out quite so neatly as the model in the pattern photo, but it's still pretty cute. And it was a fairly quick knit...even for this slowpoke knitter! Here is the bag pre-felting...

Not seamed up yet

I definitely want to try another pattern in the book...of course, I still have a lot of other unfinished knits...sigh!

End of summer

2007-08-31T16:00:00.000-07:00

Even though the official start of fall is still weeks away, summer vacation is over...the children returned to school this week, and I am exhausted. I did manage a final cupcake bake before the kiddies arrived though, mocha caramel cupcakes, for a fellow teacher's birthday.

Holes were made in the vanilla cupcakes with an apple corer, then filled them with rich caramel filling.

Blurred cupcakes filled with caramel

Swirls of mocha buttercream finished the cupcakes...I think the espresso powder in the frosting and hint of salt in the caramel provided a nice foil to the sweetness of the cupcake.

Cupcakes ready to go

A delicious end-of-summer cupcake....and like summer, they're all gone too...

Bountiful

2007-08-23T10:40:00.000-07:00

Late summer in California = lots of yummy things to eat!

1. Dan planted four blueberry bushes in the spring, and they are finally ripening...just a few berries, but oh-so-delicious with yogurt and peaches.

Berry harvest

2. Pretty striped heirloom tomatoes from our CSA Terra Firma Farms and garden-variety red tomatoes from my mother's garden...

Tomato tableau

One of my favorite summer foods is tomatoes marinated with basil, garlic and olive oil, piled on top of grilled bread...so tasty!

Mmm...tomato-y

3. Green figs from Terra Firma Farms and little red plums from a neighborhood tree...

Fig and plum

They are the key ingredients for another favorite summer treat, fig and plum cake.

Enjoy with afternoon tea

Rockin'

2007-08-16T13:16:00.000-07:00

Jennifer of Piddleloop says I'm a Rockin' Girl Blogger! (She says Arrow rocks too.) Aww...thanks, Jen! Awfully nice ego-booster, especially since I've been in such a funk recently. I am supposed to pick five rockin' girls...but there are so many rockin' girls in blogland that it is hard to choose just five! Here goes...

Joanne and her bunnies rock
not martha, first blog I ever read and always an inspiration...Megan totally rocks
African Kelli rocks...triathalete saving the world while crafting and baking with such spirit...where does all that energy come from?
Portia rocks, dissertation mommy of two and always so positive...
Molly rocks...one of my favorite food reads, with a side of gorgeous photography

Keep on rockin'!

Stitch 'n Pitch returns

2007-07-31T13:50:00.000-07:00

The second annual Giants Stitch 'n Pitch event was last week...so of course I made cupcakes for the occasion! I brought mango lime cupcakes with cream cheese frosting for the knitting ladies who attended with me, including Joanne!

Slightly blurred cupcakes-to-go

The cupcakes were very moist, but I had hoped for a more pronounced mango flavor...next time I must find really ripe, flavorful mangoes. I used Nancy's Cultured Cream Cheese for the frosting, instead of Neufchâtel, mixed the lime zest into the frosting, and omitted the chili powder....I thought the frosting was quite delicious.

Unfortunately, no yarn in our swag bags this time, unlike last year...instead, there were giant knitting needles, a huge crochet hook, a tape measure, and a cross-stitch pattern.

Bag o' goodies

The game was uneventful until the late innings...which was good for knitting progress, I suppose. The Giants rallied and went into extra innings...but ultimately lost the game. Even knitters in the ballpark can't save the game, I guess!

Summer update

2007-07-27T13:29:00.000-07:00

1. I rode the Bike for Breath 50-mile course...hooray! Thanks to everyone for supporting me in the ride for Breathe California, and to team captain Joanne for organizing team Aspiration!

2. I celebrated my birthday with friends and ice cream.

3. Dan and I took Arrow camping for a week, with his brother's family....we camped at Patrick's Point and Humboldt Redwoods and had a lovely time relaxing in the great outdoors. We enjoyed the beautiful views of the coast from Trinidad...

Pretty blue Pacific Ocean

Dan and I went canoeing with the beagle in Big Lagoon and Benbow Lake, where we spotted an osprey nest in the trees! We also walked along the beach and through Fern Canyon...

Walls of ferns

And while picking blackberries, I spied several bright green tree frogs in the blackberry bramble!

Hi froggy

With all the blackberries, we enjoyed blackberry cobbler twice two nights in a row...yum! And of course we toasted marshmallows to make s'mores nearly every night...mmm...despite a little rain midway through, it was a great trip to the redwood forest!

Redwoods

4. I finished the final tome of the Harry Potter series.